I have read some of the responses here, and have replaced the ignition module, the coil, plugs, wires.
I purchased a pick-up coil, but how do i change it??? I can't get the old one out, to put the new one in!!
I hope I don't have to remove the distributor!
any help is appreciated
93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You do have to pull the distributor,remove the drive gear and pull it apart.The wire breaking on the pick up coil is a common problem.Be brave,its not that bad!93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You might want to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil and the other wires involved. It sounds like its not getting power to the coil or its not grounded well or at all.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Ok all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
Autozone put the code reader on my 2002 Chevy S-10,four cylinder. ( I have the E85 flex fuel motor). My engine light is on. The code 303 came up saying I have a misfire in cylinder 3 and the 4 most probable causes are: a) Ignition system(I had the plugs and wires changed but nothing else such as the coil.
b)vacuum leak
c) fuel injection fault
d) Too high (or low) fuel pressure
So what is the easiest (and least expensive)way of checking each of these out? I honestly do not know how to test any of these possible problems. Thanks for any help you can give me!Ok all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
i don't know but my mom had almost the same problem and she changed her gas cap and the check engine light went offOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
use a propane torch to check for a vacuum leak. do not light it just open the valve and move it around near your lines, if there is a vacuum leak the engine will rev upOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
there is no easy way to test an injector or fuel pressure without pressure gauges and proper tools. If you have no idea how to test them (by posting this you obviously dont) then take it to a certified shop to prevent damage and/or fire. You can always test fuel pressure by pressing in the test port and seeing how far the fuel shoots out. If it just dribbles out then you have low pressure. If it shoots out a couple feet then you have good pressure.
ASE master certified techOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
does your truck have a distributor and rotor? have you tried using a quality injector cleaner in your gas? have you had the fuel filter changed? have you checked the battery connections for corrosion? the on-board computer wigs out if the voltage drops due to dirty battery terminalsOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
as i sit back in my rocker, i seem to notice another disgruntled chevy owner, there are millions of themOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
if its manual trans the engine control module is bad and after the dealer installs the new one it will get a code to relearn crank shaft then the new emc will fail then they will replace it with a good one after they waste your time there was a recall on the 4 cylinder manual trans but if its not that then see if you can change coils around to see if missfire changes cylinders if it has 2 dual coils. if not you can jumper the module to the wires of the coils to switch and see if that and i dont remember if that has 2 plugs per cylinder then you need to do a compression test if it a intake valve a vaccume gauge attached to a manifold vaccume port the needle will bounce and wont be smooththe chevys have toomany problems to list but sometime the fuel pressure regulators leak fuel into the intake jsut un plug the hose then start the engine and see if fuel comes out besure no open flames are around and your not smoking and have somthing to put out fire if fuel catches fire the intake gaskets sometimes crack inside the engine if there is a large vaccume when you remove the oil cap it may be leaking there should only be a slight vaccume fromthe breather and pcv you can block both if your not shure and see if it has vaccumeOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
first do NOT take it to an ase certified tech.they would only diagnois the problem correctly and fix it in a timely manner,where is the FUN in that .when you can waste valuable time on the net reading smart-alec replies like this or waste CHEAP GAS driving around to parts stores for a FREE code scan that tells you NOTHING .remember things are worth what you pay for them ,like free diags and free advice-good luck and thanks for the two pts
b)vacuum leak
c) fuel injection fault
d) Too high (or low) fuel pressure
So what is the easiest (and least expensive)way of checking each of these out? I honestly do not know how to test any of these possible problems. Thanks for any help you can give me!Ok all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
i don't know but my mom had almost the same problem and she changed her gas cap and the check engine light went offOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
use a propane torch to check for a vacuum leak. do not light it just open the valve and move it around near your lines, if there is a vacuum leak the engine will rev upOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
there is no easy way to test an injector or fuel pressure without pressure gauges and proper tools. If you have no idea how to test them (by posting this you obviously dont) then take it to a certified shop to prevent damage and/or fire. You can always test fuel pressure by pressing in the test port and seeing how far the fuel shoots out. If it just dribbles out then you have low pressure. If it shoots out a couple feet then you have good pressure.
ASE master certified techOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
does your truck have a distributor and rotor? have you tried using a quality injector cleaner in your gas? have you had the fuel filter changed? have you checked the battery connections for corrosion? the on-board computer wigs out if the voltage drops due to dirty battery terminalsOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
as i sit back in my rocker, i seem to notice another disgruntled chevy owner, there are millions of themOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
if its manual trans the engine control module is bad and after the dealer installs the new one it will get a code to relearn crank shaft then the new emc will fail then they will replace it with a good one after they waste your time there was a recall on the 4 cylinder manual trans but if its not that then see if you can change coils around to see if missfire changes cylinders if it has 2 dual coils. if not you can jumper the module to the wires of the coils to switch and see if that and i dont remember if that has 2 plugs per cylinder then you need to do a compression test if it a intake valve a vaccume gauge attached to a manifold vaccume port the needle will bounce and wont be smooththe chevys have toomany problems to list but sometime the fuel pressure regulators leak fuel into the intake jsut un plug the hose then start the engine and see if fuel comes out besure no open flames are around and your not smoking and have somthing to put out fire if fuel catches fire the intake gaskets sometimes crack inside the engine if there is a large vaccume when you remove the oil cap it may be leaking there should only be a slight vaccume fromthe breather and pcv you can block both if your not shure and see if it has vaccumeOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
first do NOT take it to an ase certified tech.they would only diagnois the problem correctly and fix it in a timely manner,where is the FUN in that .when you can waste valuable time on the net reading smart-alec replies like this or waste CHEAP GAS driving around to parts stores for a FREE code scan that tells you NOTHING .remember things are worth what you pay for them ,like free diags and free advice-good luck and thanks for the two pts
P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
I have a 96 Jeep grand Cherokee... 4.0L 4x2 w/ the same problem w/ 202,000 miles. %26lt;Amen%26gt; and it's been recently that i've been working through this problem for Ignition Coil 1. So far i've changed the Throttle Position Sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, both Oxygen sensors, the engine wire harness, the PCM, and ignition coil, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor, the rotor, distributor cap, ignition wires and spark plugs. I have totally run out of ideas. I have some of the diagnostic manuals for the GC and tried following the wiring schematics. There is a [B]grey/white[/B] wire that goes from the coil to the PCM, a [B]dark green/orange[/B] wire that goes from the PCM to the ASD relay, according to the schematics, these wires are linked to the Primary Coil1 code. i could see how that could work out w/ just placing a wire directly from the Coil to the PCM, but i've replaced the engine wire harness so i cant imagine how i could have the same problem, pls help!!!P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
Wow, you've changed a lot of stuff. The coil should have power at all times and a switching signal on the ground. When the ground turns off the coil feild collapses, triggering the spark.
I think its a loose pin on the ecu connector, seen it a few times on chryslers.P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
does it run ok? let it be or let dealer work on it.P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
You have done a commendable job in restoring the powertrain control system.
I just checked the ASE site for anything related, and found nothing.
The only thing I could contribute are two---
1) Seriously look at ALL of the grounds.Do a voltage drop test on all of them. The system may be trying to feed a circuit backwards if it can't find its dedicated connection.
2) Try a little retro diagnostics. Even though this vehicle is OBD II compliant, and the protocol is in place and active, the OLD diagnostics are still in most of the Chrysler products as well.
Try cycling the key on, off,on, off, and then on within 5 seconds and watch the MIL. It should still flash out codes, and if it does, refer to the same make, model and engine for a 1995 for diagnostic procedures.
For a clearer discussion of the procedure and description of the codes, Go Here-----%26gt;
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/o
And as you are now no doubt aware, diagnose the circuit or system and NOT just the component.
Good LuckP0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
check your catalytic converter
Wow, you've changed a lot of stuff. The coil should have power at all times and a switching signal on the ground. When the ground turns off the coil feild collapses, triggering the spark.
I think its a loose pin on the ecu connector, seen it a few times on chryslers.P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
does it run ok? let it be or let dealer work on it.P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
You have done a commendable job in restoring the powertrain control system.
I just checked the ASE site for anything related, and found nothing.
The only thing I could contribute are two---
1) Seriously look at ALL of the grounds.Do a voltage drop test on all of them. The system may be trying to feed a circuit backwards if it can't find its dedicated connection.
2) Try a little retro diagnostics. Even though this vehicle is OBD II compliant, and the protocol is in place and active, the OLD diagnostics are still in most of the Chrysler products as well.
Try cycling the key on, off,on, off, and then on within 5 seconds and watch the MIL. It should still flash out codes, and if it does, refer to the same make, model and engine for a 1995 for diagnostic procedures.
For a clearer discussion of the procedure and description of the codes, Go Here-----%26gt;
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/o
And as you are now no doubt aware, diagnose the circuit or system and NOT just the component.
Good LuckP0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
check your catalytic converter
Buick Skylark Crankshaft Position Sensor?
So i have a 1993 Buick Skylark v6 3.3l and i am not getting any spark. so i changed out the ignition control module and the coil packs and am still getting no spark. Which leads me to believe its the CPS so how do i go about replacing the sensor. thanksBuick Skylark Crankshaft Position Sensor?
the crank sensor is down by the crank pulley. get a harmonic puller because you will need it. take the crank pulley off, pull the harmonic balancer off, unplug the sensor. the way i do it is a mark the old 1 before i take it off so i can put the new 1 on the same way. there are 2 bolts that holds it, they need to come out and the sensor will come off. just align the sensor with the mark you made and install the sensor. snug the bolts up, plug the sensor in, put the harmonic balancer back on and make sure it aligns with the fins on the harmonic, put the bolt back in and tighten it, put the pulley back on and the belt.Buick Skylark Crankshaft Position Sensor?
it should be down behind the hermonic ballencer realy easy to see there is like a gear pully behind the ballencer and it is just bolted on the block and counts the gaps there is a wire going to it i could be wrong but thats were it should be
the crank sensor is down by the crank pulley. get a harmonic puller because you will need it. take the crank pulley off, pull the harmonic balancer off, unplug the sensor. the way i do it is a mark the old 1 before i take it off so i can put the new 1 on the same way. there are 2 bolts that holds it, they need to come out and the sensor will come off. just align the sensor with the mark you made and install the sensor. snug the bolts up, plug the sensor in, put the harmonic balancer back on and make sure it aligns with the fins on the harmonic, put the bolt back in and tighten it, put the pulley back on and the belt.Buick Skylark Crankshaft Position Sensor?
it should be down behind the hermonic ballencer realy easy to see there is like a gear pully behind the ballencer and it is just bolted on the block and counts the gaps there is a wire going to it i could be wrong but thats were it should be
93 Seville 4.9- PO12 engine error?
Ok, here it is... I got a 93 seville 4.9 that keeps dying on me and giving a PO12 error. I know the error is no signal form distributor so , I changed cap , rotor , ignition. She fired right up, Drove her a while ashut her down and an hour later tried to start her and nothing. She turns and turns but wont fire. So I leave her for the night, come back, try her again and she fires up again???? WHY? Then leave her for an hour, and dead agian popping the same PO 12 errror. Now I have, tested the distributor coil, good, the ignition module is what I am down to and i hope that works. My question is this.....I sthe ignition module the same thing as the ignition swith? And....If the module change produces no results, where should I go next. And... How much roughly to rep[lace the ECM??? Thanks!93 Seville 4.9- PO12 engine error?
Your coil may still be bad even if it tests good, Heat may cause it to short or ground internally. Test it again.Test the pickup coil in the distributor the same way, cold and then again hot. If both of these test good then you can go to the module or computer. The module is the oblong black plastic item in the distributor. It has a connector from the pickup coil on one end, and a connector from the distributor harness on the other.93 Seville 4.9- PO12 engine error?
First of all I would stay with AC Delco parts. The ignition module is not the same as the ignition switch. When the car wont start try taping on the ecm with a screwdriver or wrench. It should be in the passenger side kick panel or behind the glove box. You also need either a cam signal or a crank signal to the ecm in order for the ecm to know whats going on so it can send a signal to fire. It most likley is a crank signal it needs and you will have to check that with a scope and volt meter but remeber the crank sensor produces AC voltage Before you go to far check for spark when it wont start just pull a plug wire and shove a screwdriver in the end and lay it close to metal on the engine and see if it jumps if you got spark then check for fuel pressure and easy way is to spray some carb cleaner down its throat to see if she goes then. I have had modules test good on the bench and fail under a heat load so never rule out the new partwhat can i do relief besider outer
Your coil may still be bad even if it tests good, Heat may cause it to short or ground internally. Test it again.Test the pickup coil in the distributor the same way, cold and then again hot. If both of these test good then you can go to the module or computer. The module is the oblong black plastic item in the distributor. It has a connector from the pickup coil on one end, and a connector from the distributor harness on the other.93 Seville 4.9- PO12 engine error?
First of all I would stay with AC Delco parts. The ignition module is not the same as the ignition switch. When the car wont start try taping on the ecm with a screwdriver or wrench. It should be in the passenger side kick panel or behind the glove box. You also need either a cam signal or a crank signal to the ecm in order for the ecm to know whats going on so it can send a signal to fire. It most likley is a crank signal it needs and you will have to check that with a scope and volt meter but remeber the crank sensor produces AC voltage Before you go to far check for spark when it wont start just pull a plug wire and shove a screwdriver in the end and lay it close to metal on the engine and see if it jumps if you got spark then check for fuel pressure and easy way is to spray some carb cleaner down its throat to see if she goes then. I have had modules test good on the bench and fail under a heat load so never rule out the new part
Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
I was just told that I need a timing chain for my 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I took it to the shop because it started jumping and shutting off when I slowed down or stopped at a light and eventually cut off though it would come back on. It would drive smoothly when I drove at a higher speed. Also, a very loud smell was coming out of the exhaust. I took it to the shop and he put it on the computer and it read rapid misfire so he advised me to replace the ignition coil. I did, but nothing changed afterwards and when I drove it home and tried to crank it up the next morning it wouldn't start. Now the mechanic is saying I need to replace the timing chain. He was wrong about putting the ignition coil on there, I don't know if he's wrong about the timing chain. This is getting pretty expensive. Can anyone give me some advice? If it is the timing chain how much will it cost to repair?Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
timing chains on 2.2 engines usually make noise before they go south, and when they do, its a done deal. the engine stops. most times they break, get jammed with broken pieces, and the engine locks up... until repaired. you need a second professional oppinion. the 2.2 has a history of bad timing chains,(the chain tensioner falls apart) does it sound NORMAL when you try to start it? spin too fast, make noise???Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
I'd check the owner's manual to see what is says about timing chains. And take the vehicle to a Chevy dealer for a second opinion.Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
so your car has a loud smell lol, it sounds like a timing problem all right, I've never heard of a rapid misfire but you may want to take it to auto zone and have them check it to make sure they check the COMPUTER for freeDo I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
Unless you have over 300,000 miles on the vehicle I fail to see how your timing chain would factor in to this issue.
Air filter clean?
Plugs good?
Ignition wires in good shape?
No trouble codes or check engine light?
Sounds like a 4 year old car needs a bit of TLC, but a timing chain?
Start with the basics required for the engine to run smoothly first.Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
u might look at the crankshaft position sensor.i have an 01 and it was acting really funky,i was puzzled as hell.i got a code reader and it ended up being the tps,in my mind it was totally unrelated to the problem but i changed it anyway and it ran fine ever since.get a second opinion,if ur check engine light is on,go to auto zone,get a free code scan.i don't think it's the timing chain.
timing chains on 2.2 engines usually make noise before they go south, and when they do, its a done deal. the engine stops. most times they break, get jammed with broken pieces, and the engine locks up... until repaired. you need a second professional oppinion. the 2.2 has a history of bad timing chains,(the chain tensioner falls apart) does it sound NORMAL when you try to start it? spin too fast, make noise???Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
I'd check the owner's manual to see what is says about timing chains. And take the vehicle to a Chevy dealer for a second opinion.Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
so your car has a loud smell lol, it sounds like a timing problem all right, I've never heard of a rapid misfire but you may want to take it to auto zone and have them check it to make sure they check the COMPUTER for freeDo I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
Unless you have over 300,000 miles on the vehicle I fail to see how your timing chain would factor in to this issue.
Air filter clean?
Plugs good?
Ignition wires in good shape?
No trouble codes or check engine light?
Sounds like a 4 year old car needs a bit of TLC, but a timing chain?
Start with the basics required for the engine to run smoothly first.Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
u might look at the crankshaft position sensor.i have an 01 and it was acting really funky,i was puzzled as hell.i got a code reader and it ended up being the tps,in my mind it was totally unrelated to the problem but i changed it anyway and it ran fine ever since.get a second opinion,if ur check engine light is on,go to auto zone,get a free code scan.i don't think it's the timing chain.
What do i need? how much would it cost me??
when i was driving and came to a stop light, my car just completely cut out on me. i tried to start it but it wont. it will crank but it just wouldn't start. i bought a new battery, new sparks plugs, tried a new ignition coil, i did a new oil change, and i also tried using a different starter. The starter works fine because my friend took it off his motor. i passed emitions also. and also i took the car off a friend that was sitting for two years but i did all the stuff to pass emitions.i even checked the fuel pump. nothing was wrong with it. i tried push starting it too. it kinda jumped but it didnt stay on. i even tried jumping. its a 1991 civic hatchback.What do i need? how much would it cost me??
Did you take one of the spark plug wires and put a spare plug on it and with good gloves and a pair on insulated pliers hold the plug to a ground surface and have someone turn the key for you and see if the spark was jumping? It could be that the coil has not power or the ignition module is bad. also verify that you have fuel pressure not just that the pump runs.
Either no spark (most likely) or not enough fuel pressure, did you replace the fuel filter?What do i need? how much would it cost me??
Sounds like the DPFE.What do i need? how much would it cost me??
assuming you checked your fuel pump correctly and it works, id move to spark next...just because you replaced plugs and coil dont mean its got spark, of course i have no idea how you checked your fuel, so there could be a problem there also, but if your fuel is fine and getting to the combustion chamber fine then its spark, or god forbid timing, timing belt or chain anyoneWhat do i need? how much would it cost me??
sometimes it is the simplest things and in this case you might want to look at the ground
the one that goes to the battery the nut in the frame could be loose
thats the real cheap OMG fix
other then that throw a tester on it
goodluck
Did you take one of the spark plug wires and put a spare plug on it and with good gloves and a pair on insulated pliers hold the plug to a ground surface and have someone turn the key for you and see if the spark was jumping? It could be that the coil has not power or the ignition module is bad. also verify that you have fuel pressure not just that the pump runs.
Either no spark (most likely) or not enough fuel pressure, did you replace the fuel filter?What do i need? how much would it cost me??
Sounds like the DPFE.What do i need? how much would it cost me??
assuming you checked your fuel pump correctly and it works, id move to spark next...just because you replaced plugs and coil dont mean its got spark, of course i have no idea how you checked your fuel, so there could be a problem there also, but if your fuel is fine and getting to the combustion chamber fine then its spark, or god forbid timing, timing belt or chain anyoneWhat do i need? how much would it cost me??
sometimes it is the simplest things and in this case you might want to look at the ground
the one that goes to the battery the nut in the frame could be loose
thats the real cheap OMG fix
other then that throw a tester on it
goodluck
Car surge while running every time it gets hot?
I have a daewoo lanos model 2000. Every time it gets hot it runs rough and surging. I changed the fuel injector, fuel pump, spark plug, spark plug cable wire, and ignition coil but still did not solve the problem. I send it to shop to check for computer but they did not find the cause. Four mechanics have different findings. Is there anybody out there who have the same experience and how did they solve the problem. Thanks..Car surge while running every time it gets hot?
Since this seems to be a temperature related problem, changing stuff like the fuel pump etc is not going to solve it.
Try changing (or testing first) the coolant temperature sensor. This relays information to the ECU which then adjusts fuelling / ignition accordingly for the engine's temperature
Since this seems to be a temperature related problem, changing stuff like the fuel pump etc is not going to solve it.
Try changing (or testing first) the coolant temperature sensor. This relays information to the ECU which then adjusts fuelling / ignition accordingly for the engine's temperature
Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
85 Z28 camaro with a 350 small block. Two months back after you drove the car around town shut it off come back later it would start and shut back off when you put it in gear. So we did take everyones ideas from here and found the Distributor did need changed two of the spark plug wires was lose on the cap. We changed cap rotor and coil. three week later it wouldn't even try to start so we had it towed to the shop and the Ignition Module needed changed. Yesterday my son came home handed me the keys and told me to sell it. He said it stalled at a light and wouldn't start so he pushed it off the road and walked home. I went to try it and it started great but ran for a few seconds and shut off. I checked the fuel filter it was only half full and then i checked the carb it was dry no gas at all. I came home got the starting fluid went back spayed it in the carb it ran a few second and shut off so i did it again after about 10 minutes it started and shut off. I got out checked the fuel filter again and this time it didn't have any fuel in it.My husband pulled in and he got out and checked it and found no gas in carb or filter, He wanted to try the starting fluid it did the same thing with him so he wanted to call tow truck i said no way i think this car is in love with that tow truck. I got in and pumped it and he did the starting fluid and he ran as long as I keep my foot on the gas as soon as i let go it sounded like it was going to stall and did. i turned the key it started then shut off. I told him to do the starting fluid one more time and this time i pumped it and then held the gas pedal to the floor and it started running bad but running i drove it home putting it in neutral at red lights keep it running but it still sounded like it was going to stall. We got home pulled off the fuel line turned the key and no fuel at all came out and the fuel filter had no fuel at all.Not sure how this car made it home like that. We changed the fuel filter took it for a drive it run good checked fuel filter and carb they both had gas. This morning I started it and it was running great i pulled it out of the driveway so my husband to get out and then by the time i pulled it in to the garage it didn't sound right so i checked filter and carb fuel filter was dry and carb had very little. I told my son not to go far away from home with it but he did. he drove about 20 miles to a friends house and it didn't shut off about six hours later he left there to come home and about a mile from the house it shut off seconds after he left a red light. A few hours later we went to try to start it and two turns of the key and it started and we didn't use starting fluid. We welcome any ideas we have had to tow this car six times in the year we have had it because of it stalling and not wanted to start we have had it taking to three auto repair places and no can find out why. It has a new crate motor and the fuel pump it only seven months old the carb is a brand new holly just got it in Jan of this year. new wires and plugs in Jan. Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
If it has a carburetor then it has a mechanical fuel pump.
Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine. Does fuel spit all over the place?
YES: There is adequate fuel supply. The problem is probably in the carburetor.
NO: Consider the following:
1. Bad fuel pump
2. Supply line collapse or restriction
3. Clogged vents in gas cap
By the way, there should only be one fuel filter. It is located inside the carburetor right where the fuel line connects. There is a housing that contains (usually) a paper element.
Good luck!Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
tl;dr
Anyways, basic skimming points to a fuel filler cap. It might be fuel locking and starving the motor of fuel, and then when it dies it comes back a few minutes later cause the air in the line moves back.
Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
How are the fuel tank and pick-up? Lines from tank to filter? I would start there, based upon what I am reading. Filler cap on an 85? that far back ok, sounds good to me. If not move on. Thanks for the info.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
only one possible / probable cause for not getting fuel, the filter in the tank or the pump its self, i would drop the tank drain and clean it, there are companies that do this-and have the tank coated on the inside, this really helps bigtime, it will also stop, repair and pinholes that may have been forming, the fuel pump has to be the mail problem, now, with a carb the pump is mechanically driven, it is on the passenger side of the block, since it will run with starting fluid the fuel pressure is the problem, holley makes a nice pump thats mechanical and you can adjust the position of the inlet and return /vent lines, good luckFuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
THE PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE THE FUEL PUMP, CHECK FOE VOLTAGE AT THE FUEL PUMP WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS, YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A TEST LIGHT FROM KRAGEN OR SOMETHING. IF SO, THEN CHECK AND SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR IT, DO THIS BY TURNING ON THE IGNITION AND LISTEN FOR A LOW HUMMING NOISE. ALSO LOOK AND SEE IF ANY FUEL HOSE OR LINES ARE PINCHED. TELL ME IF IT HELPS.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
First does it have a electric fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump if it has a mechanical fuel pump it could be worn out and leaking gas into the motor and not pumping it into the carb or if it has a electric fuel pump u could have a ground or power issue making the pump shut off now and then due to bumps (pot holes) in the road causing the wires to move and killing the pump so once u run out of the gas thats in the carb the car stalls out Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
try the crankshaft position sensor,and the throttle position sensor if you have either one of those ,,,,
also it sounds like your TIMING is off ..i don't think it is the timing chain though because you didn't mention a back fire.............i think your spark is hitting after the fuel has been released ....which leads me to think it may be your fuel pump .....i understand that it is about 7 months old but autozone has been having problems with fuel pumps the last few months..also check for a fuel relay for your vehicle......autozone.com has online repair manuals and troubleshooting guides and componet locator guides for many vehicles
If it has a carburetor then it has a mechanical fuel pump.
Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine. Does fuel spit all over the place?
YES: There is adequate fuel supply. The problem is probably in the carburetor.
NO: Consider the following:
1. Bad fuel pump
2. Supply line collapse or restriction
3. Clogged vents in gas cap
By the way, there should only be one fuel filter. It is located inside the carburetor right where the fuel line connects. There is a housing that contains (usually) a paper element.
Good luck!Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
tl;dr
Anyways, basic skimming points to a fuel filler cap. It might be fuel locking and starving the motor of fuel, and then when it dies it comes back a few minutes later cause the air in the line moves back.
Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
How are the fuel tank and pick-up? Lines from tank to filter? I would start there, based upon what I am reading. Filler cap on an 85? that far back ok, sounds good to me. If not move on. Thanks for the info.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
only one possible / probable cause for not getting fuel, the filter in the tank or the pump its self, i would drop the tank drain and clean it, there are companies that do this-and have the tank coated on the inside, this really helps bigtime, it will also stop, repair and pinholes that may have been forming, the fuel pump has to be the mail problem, now, with a carb the pump is mechanically driven, it is on the passenger side of the block, since it will run with starting fluid the fuel pressure is the problem, holley makes a nice pump thats mechanical and you can adjust the position of the inlet and return /vent lines, good luckFuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
THE PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE THE FUEL PUMP, CHECK FOE VOLTAGE AT THE FUEL PUMP WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS, YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A TEST LIGHT FROM KRAGEN OR SOMETHING. IF SO, THEN CHECK AND SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR IT, DO THIS BY TURNING ON THE IGNITION AND LISTEN FOR A LOW HUMMING NOISE. ALSO LOOK AND SEE IF ANY FUEL HOSE OR LINES ARE PINCHED. TELL ME IF IT HELPS.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
First does it have a electric fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump if it has a mechanical fuel pump it could be worn out and leaking gas into the motor and not pumping it into the carb or if it has a electric fuel pump u could have a ground or power issue making the pump shut off now and then due to bumps (pot holes) in the road causing the wires to move and killing the pump so once u run out of the gas thats in the carb the car stalls out Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
try the crankshaft position sensor,and the throttle position sensor if you have either one of those ,,,,
also it sounds like your TIMING is off ..i don't think it is the timing chain though because you didn't mention a back fire.............i think your spark is hitting after the fuel has been released ....which leads me to think it may be your fuel pump .....i understand that it is about 7 months old but autozone has been having problems with fuel pumps the last few months..also check for a fuel relay for your vehicle......autozone.com has online repair manuals and troubleshooting guides and componet locator guides for many vehicles
Hi,i am driving a Renault Megane Cabriolet 2001 1.6 16V.?
any idea how much would it cost to change the flywheel sensor or the ignition coils?like to get an idea of the cost first before i go down to the workshop.thanks for helping.regards!Hi,i am driving a Renault Megane Cabriolet 2001 1.6 16V.?
look the web site renault France tuning:
http://www.creative-car-gillet.com/produinstall theme into v3i relationship advice needed
look the web site renault France tuning:
http://www.creative-car-gillet.com/produ
Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!%26quot;Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!%26quot;Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
I have a 1999 pontiac grand prix gt which is misfiring thus vibrating and sputerring. I have changed the coils packs and spark plugs as the car uses the COP ignition system. The problem comes and goes which tells me its not the fuel pump or system. I want to change the lower crank shaft sensor which I have been told can definietly cause my issue. How easily is this to do on my specific car and how expensive is a new lower crank shaft sensor? Are any pontiac/gms specific tools needed?Can anyone provide any specific schematics which will tell me how to do this? If you do can you please provide a link rather than just putting goto autozone.com....Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
Crank and cam sensors don't generally give occasional problems.
They either work, or they don't.
Before you start yanking MORE parts, why not have the codes scanned?
It's free to do at a bunch of places. Mostly at auto parts stores.
The crank sensor is a pain in the *** to get to, but overall it's pretty simple.Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
The sensor itself is generally a cheap part but replacing it is another story. You probably don't need any specific tools for the job but you're definitely going to need a torque wrench.
But I doubt that's the actual problem. Distributor-less ignition means you may need to change the harnesses as well.Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
I assume you own a lift, so yes, if you have tools and knowledge you can replace it. I assume the check engine light is on with this code as well, if not, then it's something else. As far as cost, use some common sense if you own a telephone and call a parts place.
Crank and cam sensors don't generally give occasional problems.
They either work, or they don't.
Before you start yanking MORE parts, why not have the codes scanned?
It's free to do at a bunch of places. Mostly at auto parts stores.
The crank sensor is a pain in the *** to get to, but overall it's pretty simple.Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
The sensor itself is generally a cheap part but replacing it is another story. You probably don't need any specific tools for the job but you're definitely going to need a torque wrench.
But I doubt that's the actual problem. Distributor-less ignition means you may need to change the harnesses as well.Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
I assume you own a lift, so yes, if you have tools and knowledge you can replace it. I assume the check engine light is on with this code as well, if not, then it's something else. As far as cost, use some common sense if you own a telephone and call a parts place.
Ive got a sohc EFi engine with a distibutor (hall-effect) type ignition,.?
can i change it/mod it to a waste-spark type twin coil/quad coil (Distributorless Ignition system).. or individual coil system? how its done?Ive got a sohc EFi engine with a distibutor (hall-effect) type ignition,.?
Not likely unless there is a way to add a TDC sensor to it.Ive got a sohc EFi engine with a distibutor (hall-effect) type ignition,.?
as a matter of fact yes... it can be done.. with good after market ECU...
i'v seen one... the ecu just need the stock distributor (no leads) and it will figure the rest..
Not likely unless there is a way to add a TDC sensor to it.Ive got a sohc EFi engine with a distibutor (hall-effect) type ignition,.?
as a matter of fact yes... it can be done.. with good after market ECU...
i'v seen one... the ecu just need the stock distributor (no leads) and it will figure the rest..
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How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
right now all i got is 30 psi is that good are not good enough ,the plugs are firein but the motor will not even hit like it is going to start up , please give a list of things that could cause this. it was runing fine untill the vent hose came off of the dist cap and i got water in it then it got were it would if you kicked down on it it acted like a stopped up fuel filter and as long as i drove it easy it was fine untill the other day it quit on me and would not start up so i checked the plugs and they were not firein,so i changed the dist cap and they are firein now but it acts like it is not getting gas now . sorry for not being organized with this question but i really need some help with this. back when it was running i took it to a shop and hooked it up on a com. first they told me the knock sensor i changed that and did not work, took it back to the shop and they told me the coolent sensor was bad guess what? that didn't fix it. i have put a new fuel filter on it , changed the ignition module,new plugs, coil, so if you know anything else i need to check please tell me thanks for any helpHow much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
1]. With engine %26quot;OFF%26quot;, ignition %26quot;ON%26quot;, and the fuel pump running pressure should 41.0 to 47.0 PSI Note: give it a blast of alternate fuel (choke cleaner in the throttle body and try it that way you will know if it is a fuel problem!!!) Then again you can just throw parts at it!!!How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
I think the pressure should be a little higher... like 35-40 psi or something. If your motor is TPI, you should see a steady cone-shaped pattern of fuel being sprayed from the injectors into the intake. For MPI, hook a NOID light to the connector for each injector and see if you get pulsation (indicated by the light blinking on/off while cranking). If in both cases, neither is happening, then check for the signal thats supposed to come from the ECM... if no signal, then the ECM is your problem.How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
Have you changed your pickup coil, it sits under your ignition module ? Might be your fuel system, but I'm not sure that you went deep enough on your ignition, since you said this all started with your distributor. I would also check all connections.How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
you might want to change the fuel filter and then check it again. if the filter is dirty then it won,t read right.
1]. With engine %26quot;OFF%26quot;, ignition %26quot;ON%26quot;, and the fuel pump running pressure should 41.0 to 47.0 PSI Note: give it a blast of alternate fuel (choke cleaner in the throttle body and try it that way you will know if it is a fuel problem!!!) Then again you can just throw parts at it!!!How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
I think the pressure should be a little higher... like 35-40 psi or something. If your motor is TPI, you should see a steady cone-shaped pattern of fuel being sprayed from the injectors into the intake. For MPI, hook a NOID light to the connector for each injector and see if you get pulsation (indicated by the light blinking on/off while cranking). If in both cases, neither is happening, then check for the signal thats supposed to come from the ECM... if no signal, then the ECM is your problem.How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
Have you changed your pickup coil, it sits under your ignition module ? Might be your fuel system, but I'm not sure that you went deep enough on your ignition, since you said this all started with your distributor. I would also check all connections.How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
you might want to change the fuel filter and then check it again. if the filter is dirty then it won,t read right.
1999 Toyota Sienna Plug Wires and Ignition Coils replacement?
Should I preemptively replace my plug wires and ignition coils at 150,000 miles and / or how should I know when to replace them?
I'm about to do a 150,000 mile tune-up. I'm planning to do a Transmission Flush, oil %26amp; filter change, change spark plugs and replace valve cover seals (front is visibly leaking). At this point the engine runs great and has never blown a code.
I know that Spark plug wires eventually degrade and that coils will eventually fail. Should I just wait until the engine blows codes, or should I replace earlier?1999 Toyota Sienna Plug Wires and Ignition Coils replacement?
i would say to leave the coils alone and just do the plugs and wires and the other stuff you plain on doing.chair rental for barber Where to get comforters to day beds
I'm about to do a 150,000 mile tune-up. I'm planning to do a Transmission Flush, oil %26amp; filter change, change spark plugs and replace valve cover seals (front is visibly leaking). At this point the engine runs great and has never blown a code.
I know that Spark plug wires eventually degrade and that coils will eventually fail. Should I just wait until the engine blows codes, or should I replace earlier?1999 Toyota Sienna Plug Wires and Ignition Coils replacement?
i would say to leave the coils alone and just do the plugs and wires and the other stuff you plain on doing.
No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
I have a 98' Grand Am GT 3.1L V6 with 88k miles. As of this afternoon, the engine turns over but will not start. The engine is getting gas but no spark at any of the three coils. I don't think all three coils would go bad at the same time so I suspect the Ignition Control Module or a Camshaft Position Sensor may be bad.
Is there anyway I can test the ICM or CPS with a meter? (Called Autozone and they can't test it. The Chilton book has no information about testing the ICM or CPS, only details how to take out and replace).
The car had a full maintainence (new plugs, new wires, fluids changed, new filters all around) less than 1000 miles ago and was running great up until it wouldn't start this afternoon.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you might want to check the distributor cap, and the rotor inside it. that can be the cause of the problem, and it's an easy fix too. since it's getting gas, i don't think it has anything to do with then fuel pump, lines or filter. check the ecu to see if there's any code lights on it. sometimes ecu's don't set the check engine light off for certain codes. also, if the timing is off, the might not run either. anyways, hope this helps, and good luck!No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
If you just had a full tune up less than 1000 miles ago, bring it to the place that performed the tune up. It is possible they could have used incorrect spark plugs and wires.
But no, there is no way to use a meter to check your IPM or CPS. You can test individual sensors but it is a royal pain in the you know what. My guess is that you need a new coil pack for the three cylinders that are not firing or a crank sensor.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
Ingition control module sounds good.But it all starts with the ECM it sends power to the ignition module.Also check for blown fuses esp the ecm fuse.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you need a schematic for your wiring. is there a fusible link in the system? the ignition module and cam or crank sensor are good ideas but if you have it scanned it should have a code set. I'm not sure about your model but some GM's you can jump the diagnostic connector and get the codes with the check engine light. check the advance auto or auto zone sites for instructions for that.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
CHECK ALL FUSES THEN HAVE IGNITION MODULE CHECKED AT LOCAL PARTS STORE ,ALSO CHECK CRANK SENSOR,CAM SENSOR,CAN BE COMPUTERNo spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
replace suspected coils.
Is there anyway I can test the ICM or CPS with a meter? (Called Autozone and they can't test it. The Chilton book has no information about testing the ICM or CPS, only details how to take out and replace).
The car had a full maintainence (new plugs, new wires, fluids changed, new filters all around) less than 1000 miles ago and was running great up until it wouldn't start this afternoon.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you might want to check the distributor cap, and the rotor inside it. that can be the cause of the problem, and it's an easy fix too. since it's getting gas, i don't think it has anything to do with then fuel pump, lines or filter. check the ecu to see if there's any code lights on it. sometimes ecu's don't set the check engine light off for certain codes. also, if the timing is off, the might not run either. anyways, hope this helps, and good luck!No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
If you just had a full tune up less than 1000 miles ago, bring it to the place that performed the tune up. It is possible they could have used incorrect spark plugs and wires.
But no, there is no way to use a meter to check your IPM or CPS. You can test individual sensors but it is a royal pain in the you know what. My guess is that you need a new coil pack for the three cylinders that are not firing or a crank sensor.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
Ingition control module sounds good.But it all starts with the ECM it sends power to the ignition module.Also check for blown fuses esp the ecm fuse.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you need a schematic for your wiring. is there a fusible link in the system? the ignition module and cam or crank sensor are good ideas but if you have it scanned it should have a code set. I'm not sure about your model but some GM's you can jump the diagnostic connector and get the codes with the check engine light. check the advance auto or auto zone sites for instructions for that.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
CHECK ALL FUSES THEN HAVE IGNITION MODULE CHECKED AT LOCAL PARTS STORE ,ALSO CHECK CRANK SENSOR,CAM SENSOR,CAN BE COMPUTERNo spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
replace suspected coils.
How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
I done a simle tune up. i got it all changed spark plugs, wires, rotor button, distributor cap, now it cranks but wont start. getting good fire from coil just none from distributor to plugs?How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
Double check to see if your rotor and cap are both seated correctly.How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
take out all the guess work out of it take it to like a auto-zone they test it for freeHow can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
If you had a bad ignition control module you wouldn't get any spark from the coil at all. Your problem lies in the wires. Either the coil wire is not inserted all the way at both ends which is why there is no power at the distributor or some of the wires are switched. I am thinking the wires are switched or not inserted all the way and are not making a good contact. Sure to make sure they are all making contacts.
Double check to see if your rotor and cap are both seated correctly.How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
take out all the guess work out of it take it to like a auto-zone they test it for freeHow can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
If you had a bad ignition control module you wouldn't get any spark from the coil at all. Your problem lies in the wires. Either the coil wire is not inserted all the way at both ends which is why there is no power at the distributor or some of the wires are switched. I am thinking the wires are switched or not inserted all the way and are not making a good contact. Sure to make sure they are all making contacts.
I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won't start.?
I have changed the spark plugs, had the ignition coil pack and module checked out okay and the fuel pumps okay. BUT still no start. Someone mention a %26quot;chip%26quot;(?) - What is it and where or how do I check it out without having it towed to a licenced mechanic which I cannot afford. Is there something else I am missing?I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
It needs a fuel pump. Not an uncommon repair on a Sunfire. The best way to verify this is to listen when you turn the key on, but don't attempt to crank the engine. Do you hear a short, maybe 2 second hum from under the vehicle? That's the fuel pump priming. If you don't hear it, the pump is finished.
With regard to the other posters, I have never in 10 years seen a fuel filter cause a concern of this nature.I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
You need 3 elements to make a motor run: Air, Spark, and Fuel
Spark- you already changed the plugs and had the ignition coil checked out, so we can eliminate that. Just make sure all the wire are correctly placed on the distributor.
Air- I doubt anything is prevent air from going into the combustion chambers. eliminate that
Fuel- 1) Make sure you have gas. 2) Check that your fuel filter isnt clogged. 3) Make sure your getting fuel pressure on the rails. On your fuel rail (where the fuel injectors connect to) their should be a shraeder valve. It looks like valve stem on a bike tire or car tire. Depress the pin; if you get a mist of fuel, you have pressure. If you dont get any fuel, or it leaks out slowly, this indicates a faulty fuel pump. 4) when you turn the key to the on position (but not turning the engine over), listen careful and see if you can hear the fuel pump cycle. If not, faulty pump. 5) check fuel pump fuseI have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
could be a fuse, or a bad or lose engine ground being as old as the car is replace the engine ground its old and corrugated try wiggling the engine ground around this may be a temporary fix to get it started
It needs a fuel pump. Not an uncommon repair on a Sunfire. The best way to verify this is to listen when you turn the key on, but don't attempt to crank the engine. Do you hear a short, maybe 2 second hum from under the vehicle? That's the fuel pump priming. If you don't hear it, the pump is finished.
With regard to the other posters, I have never in 10 years seen a fuel filter cause a concern of this nature.I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
You need 3 elements to make a motor run: Air, Spark, and Fuel
Spark- you already changed the plugs and had the ignition coil checked out, so we can eliminate that. Just make sure all the wire are correctly placed on the distributor.
Air- I doubt anything is prevent air from going into the combustion chambers. eliminate that
Fuel- 1) Make sure you have gas. 2) Check that your fuel filter isnt clogged. 3) Make sure your getting fuel pressure on the rails. On your fuel rail (where the fuel injectors connect to) their should be a shraeder valve. It looks like valve stem on a bike tire or car tire. Depress the pin; if you get a mist of fuel, you have pressure. If you dont get any fuel, or it leaks out slowly, this indicates a faulty fuel pump. 4) when you turn the key to the on position (but not turning the engine over), listen careful and see if you can hear the fuel pump cycle. If not, faulty pump. 5) check fuel pump fuseI have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
could be a fuse, or a bad or lose engine ground being as old as the car is replace the engine ground its old and corrugated try wiggling the engine ground around this may be a temporary fix to get it started
My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
i have changed my maruthi car ignition coil to avoid miss firing it is reduced up to some extent but not totall how can avoid this problem. I am using gas to run the carMy care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
get it serviced...My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
Consult the dealer for after-sales-service!My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
what can i say except to consult a dealer who should be able to solve the problem for good.My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
800 is very easy like mopet . ladies like too. it is mechanical problem, go to good mechanical show it.
get it serviced...My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
Consult the dealer for after-sales-service!My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
what can i say except to consult a dealer who should be able to solve the problem for good.My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
800 is very easy like mopet . ladies like too. it is mechanical problem, go to good mechanical show it.
How do you know if timing is bad on a 90 ford probe?
i have a 90 ford probe and it tries to crank over just wont start i changed the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, and ignition coil. and it still wont start. how do u tell if the timing is bad? do you have any other suggestions?How do you know if timing is bad on a 90 ford probe?
The Probes distributors were notorious for going bad, I'd start there and have it checked out!fish talking about marriage
The Probes distributors were notorious for going bad, I'd start there and have it checked out!
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