Wednesday, November 24, 2010

93 chevy silverado..... no spark?

I have read some of the responses here, and have replaced the ignition module, the coil, plugs, wires.

I purchased a pick-up coil, but how do i change it??? I can't get the old one out, to put the new one in!!



I hope I don't have to remove the distributor!



any help is appreciated

93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You do have to pull the distributor,remove the drive gear and pull it apart.The wire breaking on the pick up coil is a common problem.Be brave,its not that bad!93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You might want to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil and the other wires involved. It sounds like its not getting power to the coil or its not grounded well or at all.

Ok all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?

Autozone put the code reader on my 2002 Chevy S-10,four cylinder. ( I have the E85 flex fuel motor). My engine light is on. The code 303 came up saying I have a misfire in cylinder 3 and the 4 most probable causes are: a) Ignition system(I had the plugs and wires changed but nothing else such as the coil.

b)vacuum leak

c) fuel injection fault

d) Too high (or low) fuel pressure

So what is the easiest (and least expensive)way of checking each of these out? I honestly do not know how to test any of these possible problems. Thanks for any help you can give me!Ok all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
i don't know but my mom had almost the same problem and she changed her gas cap and the check engine light went offOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
use a propane torch to check for a vacuum leak. do not light it just open the valve and move it around near your lines, if there is a vacuum leak the engine will rev upOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
there is no easy way to test an injector or fuel pressure without pressure gauges and proper tools. If you have no idea how to test them (by posting this you obviously dont) then take it to a certified shop to prevent damage and/or fire. You can always test fuel pressure by pressing in the test port and seeing how far the fuel shoots out. If it just dribbles out then you have low pressure. If it shoots out a couple feet then you have good pressure.

ASE master certified techOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
does your truck have a distributor and rotor? have you tried using a quality injector cleaner in your gas? have you had the fuel filter changed? have you checked the battery connections for corrosion? the on-board computer wigs out if the voltage drops due to dirty battery terminalsOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
as i sit back in my rocker, i seem to notice another disgruntled chevy owner, there are millions of themOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
if its manual trans the engine control module is bad and after the dealer installs the new one it will get a code to relearn crank shaft then the new emc will fail then they will replace it with a good one after they waste your time there was a recall on the 4 cylinder manual trans but if its not that then see if you can change coils around to see if missfire changes cylinders if it has 2 dual coils. if not you can jumper the module to the wires of the coils to switch and see if that and i dont remember if that has 2 plugs per cylinder then you need to do a compression test if it a intake valve a vaccume gauge attached to a manifold vaccume port the needle will bounce and wont be smooththe chevys have toomany problems to list but sometime the fuel pressure regulators leak fuel into the intake jsut un plug the hose then start the engine and see if fuel comes out besure no open flames are around and your not smoking and have somthing to put out fire if fuel catches fire the intake gaskets sometimes crack inside the engine if there is a large vaccume when you remove the oil cap it may be leaking there should only be a slight vaccume fromthe breather and pcv you can block both if your not shure and see if it has vaccumeOk all you armchair mechanics: How do I solve this problem?
first do NOT take it to an ase certified tech.they would only diagnois the problem correctly and fix it in a timely manner,where is the FUN in that .when you can waste valuable time on the net reading smart-alec replies like this or waste CHEAP GAS driving around to parts stores for a FREE code scan that tells you NOTHING .remember things are worth what you pay for them ,like free diags and free advice-good luck and thanks for the two pts

P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?

I have a 96 Jeep grand Cherokee... 4.0L 4x2 w/ the same problem w/ 202,000 miles. %26lt;Amen%26gt; and it's been recently that i've been working through this problem for Ignition Coil 1. So far i've changed the Throttle Position Sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, both Oxygen sensors, the engine wire harness, the PCM, and ignition coil, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor, the rotor, distributor cap, ignition wires and spark plugs. I have totally run out of ideas. I have some of the diagnostic manuals for the GC and tried following the wiring schematics. There is a [B]grey/white[/B] wire that goes from the coil to the PCM, a [B]dark green/orange[/B] wire that goes from the PCM to the ASD relay, according to the schematics, these wires are linked to the Primary Coil1 code. i could see how that could work out w/ just placing a wire directly from the Coil to the PCM, but i've replaced the engine wire harness so i cant imagine how i could have the same problem, pls help!!!P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
Wow, you've changed a lot of stuff. The coil should have power at all times and a switching signal on the ground. When the ground turns off the coil feild collapses, triggering the spark.



I think its a loose pin on the ecu connector, seen it a few times on chryslers.P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
does it run ok? let it be or let dealer work on it.P0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
You have done a commendable job in restoring the powertrain control system.

I just checked the ASE site for anything related, and found nothing.

The only thing I could contribute are two---

1) Seriously look at ALL of the grounds.Do a voltage drop test on all of them. The system may be trying to feed a circuit backwards if it can't find its dedicated connection.

2) Try a little retro diagnostics. Even though this vehicle is OBD II compliant, and the protocol is in place and active, the OLD diagnostics are still in most of the Chrysler products as well.

Try cycling the key on, off,on, off, and then on within 5 seconds and watch the MIL. It should still flash out codes, and if it does, refer to the same make, model and engine for a 1995 for diagnostic procedures.

For a clearer discussion of the procedure and description of the codes, Go Here-----%26gt;



http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/o



And as you are now no doubt aware, diagnose the circuit or system and NOT just the component.



Good LuckP0351 Code on my Jeep Grand Cherokee?
check your catalytic converter

Buick Skylark Crankshaft Position Sensor?

So i have a 1993 Buick Skylark v6 3.3l and i am not getting any spark. so i changed out the ignition control module and the coil packs and am still getting no spark. Which leads me to believe its the CPS so how do i go about replacing the sensor. thanksBuick Skylark Crankshaft Position Sensor?
the crank sensor is down by the crank pulley. get a harmonic puller because you will need it. take the crank pulley off, pull the harmonic balancer off, unplug the sensor. the way i do it is a mark the old 1 before i take it off so i can put the new 1 on the same way. there are 2 bolts that holds it, they need to come out and the sensor will come off. just align the sensor with the mark you made and install the sensor. snug the bolts up, plug the sensor in, put the harmonic balancer back on and make sure it aligns with the fins on the harmonic, put the bolt back in and tighten it, put the pulley back on and the belt.Buick Skylark Crankshaft Position Sensor?
it should be down behind the hermonic ballencer realy easy to see there is like a gear pully behind the ballencer and it is just bolted on the block and counts the gaps there is a wire going to it i could be wrong but thats were it should be

93 Seville 4.9- PO12 engine error?

Ok, here it is... I got a 93 seville 4.9 that keeps dying on me and giving a PO12 error. I know the error is no signal form distributor so , I changed cap , rotor , ignition. She fired right up, Drove her a while ashut her down and an hour later tried to start her and nothing. She turns and turns but wont fire. So I leave her for the night, come back, try her again and she fires up again???? WHY? Then leave her for an hour, and dead agian popping the same PO 12 errror. Now I have, tested the distributor coil, good, the ignition module is what I am down to and i hope that works. My question is this.....I sthe ignition module the same thing as the ignition swith? And....If the module change produces no results, where should I go next. And... How much roughly to rep[lace the ECM??? Thanks!93 Seville 4.9- PO12 engine error?
Your coil may still be bad even if it tests good, Heat may cause it to short or ground internally. Test it again.Test the pickup coil in the distributor the same way, cold and then again hot. If both of these test good then you can go to the module or computer. The module is the oblong black plastic item in the distributor. It has a connector from the pickup coil on one end, and a connector from the distributor harness on the other.93 Seville 4.9- PO12 engine error?
First of all I would stay with AC Delco parts. The ignition module is not the same as the ignition switch. When the car wont start try taping on the ecm with a screwdriver or wrench. It should be in the passenger side kick panel or behind the glove box. You also need either a cam signal or a crank signal to the ecm in order for the ecm to know whats going on so it can send a signal to fire. It most likley is a crank signal it needs and you will have to check that with a scope and volt meter but remeber the crank sensor produces AC voltage Before you go to far check for spark when it wont start just pull a plug wire and shove a screwdriver in the end and lay it close to metal on the engine and see if it jumps if you got spark then check for fuel pressure and easy way is to spray some carb cleaner down its throat to see if she goes then. I have had modules test good on the bench and fail under a heat load so never rule out the new part
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  • Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?

    I was just told that I need a timing chain for my 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I took it to the shop because it started jumping and shutting off when I slowed down or stopped at a light and eventually cut off though it would come back on. It would drive smoothly when I drove at a higher speed. Also, a very loud smell was coming out of the exhaust. I took it to the shop and he put it on the computer and it read rapid misfire so he advised me to replace the ignition coil. I did, but nothing changed afterwards and when I drove it home and tried to crank it up the next morning it wouldn't start. Now the mechanic is saying I need to replace the timing chain. He was wrong about putting the ignition coil on there, I don't know if he's wrong about the timing chain. This is getting pretty expensive. Can anyone give me some advice? If it is the timing chain how much will it cost to repair?Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
    timing chains on 2.2 engines usually make noise before they go south, and when they do, its a done deal. the engine stops. most times they break, get jammed with broken pieces, and the engine locks up... until repaired. you need a second professional oppinion. the 2.2 has a history of bad timing chains,(the chain tensioner falls apart) does it sound NORMAL when you try to start it? spin too fast, make noise???Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
    I'd check the owner's manual to see what is says about timing chains. And take the vehicle to a Chevy dealer for a second opinion.Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
    so your car has a loud smell lol, it sounds like a timing problem all right, I've never heard of a rapid misfire but you may want to take it to auto zone and have them check it to make sure they check the COMPUTER for freeDo I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
    Unless you have over 300,000 miles on the vehicle I fail to see how your timing chain would factor in to this issue.



    Air filter clean?

    Plugs good?

    Ignition wires in good shape?

    No trouble codes or check engine light?

    Sounds like a 4 year old car needs a bit of TLC, but a timing chain?



    Start with the basics required for the engine to run smoothly first.Do I need to replace this timing chain on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Engine?
    u might look at the crankshaft position sensor.i have an 01 and it was acting really funky,i was puzzled as hell.i got a code reader and it ended up being the tps,in my mind it was totally unrelated to the problem but i changed it anyway and it ran fine ever since.get a second opinion,if ur check engine light is on,go to auto zone,get a free code scan.i don't think it's the timing chain.

    What do i need? how much would it cost me??

    when i was driving and came to a stop light, my car just completely cut out on me. i tried to start it but it wont. it will crank but it just wouldn't start. i bought a new battery, new sparks plugs, tried a new ignition coil, i did a new oil change, and i also tried using a different starter. The starter works fine because my friend took it off his motor. i passed emitions also. and also i took the car off a friend that was sitting for two years but i did all the stuff to pass emitions.i even checked the fuel pump. nothing was wrong with it. i tried push starting it too. it kinda jumped but it didnt stay on. i even tried jumping. its a 1991 civic hatchback.What do i need? how much would it cost me??
    Did you take one of the spark plug wires and put a spare plug on it and with good gloves and a pair on insulated pliers hold the plug to a ground surface and have someone turn the key for you and see if the spark was jumping? It could be that the coil has not power or the ignition module is bad. also verify that you have fuel pressure not just that the pump runs.

    Either no spark (most likely) or not enough fuel pressure, did you replace the fuel filter?What do i need? how much would it cost me??
    Sounds like the DPFE.What do i need? how much would it cost me??
    assuming you checked your fuel pump correctly and it works, id move to spark next...just because you replaced plugs and coil dont mean its got spark, of course i have no idea how you checked your fuel, so there could be a problem there also, but if your fuel is fine and getting to the combustion chamber fine then its spark, or god forbid timing, timing belt or chain anyoneWhat do i need? how much would it cost me??
    sometimes it is the simplest things and in this case you might want to look at the ground

    the one that goes to the battery the nut in the frame could be loose

    thats the real cheap OMG fix

    other then that throw a tester on it

    goodluck

    Car surge while running every time it gets hot?

    I have a daewoo lanos model 2000. Every time it gets hot it runs rough and surging. I changed the fuel injector, fuel pump, spark plug, spark plug cable wire, and ignition coil but still did not solve the problem. I send it to shop to check for computer but they did not find the cause. Four mechanics have different findings. Is there anybody out there who have the same experience and how did they solve the problem. Thanks..Car surge while running every time it gets hot?
    Since this seems to be a temperature related problem, changing stuff like the fuel pump etc is not going to solve it.



    Try changing (or testing first) the coolant temperature sensor. This relays information to the ECU which then adjusts fuelling / ignition accordingly for the engine's temperature

    Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel

    85 Z28 camaro with a 350 small block. Two months back after you drove the car around town shut it off come back later it would start and shut back off when you put it in gear. So we did take everyones ideas from here and found the Distributor did need changed two of the spark plug wires was lose on the cap. We changed cap rotor and coil. three week later it wouldn't even try to start so we had it towed to the shop and the Ignition Module needed changed. Yesterday my son came home handed me the keys and told me to sell it. He said it stalled at a light and wouldn't start so he pushed it off the road and walked home. I went to try it and it started great but ran for a few seconds and shut off. I checked the fuel filter it was only half full and then i checked the carb it was dry no gas at all. I came home got the starting fluid went back spayed it in the carb it ran a few second and shut off so i did it again after about 10 minutes it started and shut off. I got out checked the fuel filter again and this time it didn't have any fuel in it.My husband pulled in and he got out and checked it and found no gas in carb or filter, He wanted to try the starting fluid it did the same thing with him so he wanted to call tow truck i said no way i think this car is in love with that tow truck. I got in and pumped it and he did the starting fluid and he ran as long as I keep my foot on the gas as soon as i let go it sounded like it was going to stall and did. i turned the key it started then shut off. I told him to do the starting fluid one more time and this time i pumped it and then held the gas pedal to the floor and it started running bad but running i drove it home putting it in neutral at red lights keep it running but it still sounded like it was going to stall. We got home pulled off the fuel line turned the key and no fuel at all came out and the fuel filter had no fuel at all.Not sure how this car made it home like that. We changed the fuel filter took it for a drive it run good checked fuel filter and carb they both had gas. This morning I started it and it was running great i pulled it out of the driveway so my husband to get out and then by the time i pulled it in to the garage it didn't sound right so i checked filter and carb fuel filter was dry and carb had very little. I told my son not to go far away from home with it but he did. he drove about 20 miles to a friends house and it didn't shut off about six hours later he left there to come home and about a mile from the house it shut off seconds after he left a red light. A few hours later we went to try to start it and two turns of the key and it started and we didn't use starting fluid. We welcome any ideas we have had to tow this car six times in the year we have had it because of it stalling and not wanted to start we have had it taking to three auto repair places and no can find out why. It has a new crate motor and the fuel pump it only seven months old the carb is a brand new holly just got it in Jan of this year. new wires and plugs in Jan. Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
    If it has a carburetor then it has a mechanical fuel pump.

    Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine. Does fuel spit all over the place?

    YES: There is adequate fuel supply. The problem is probably in the carburetor.

    NO: Consider the following:

    1. Bad fuel pump

    2. Supply line collapse or restriction

    3. Clogged vents in gas cap

    By the way, there should only be one fuel filter. It is located inside the carburetor right where the fuel line connects. There is a housing that contains (usually) a paper element.

    Good luck!Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
    tl;dr



    Anyways, basic skimming points to a fuel filler cap. It might be fuel locking and starving the motor of fuel, and then when it dies it comes back a few minutes later cause the air in the line moves back.



    Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
    How are the fuel tank and pick-up? Lines from tank to filter? I would start there, based upon what I am reading. Filler cap on an 85? that far back ok, sounds good to me. If not move on. Thanks for the info.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
    only one possible / probable cause for not getting fuel, the filter in the tank or the pump its self, i would drop the tank drain and clean it, there are companies that do this-and have the tank coated on the inside, this really helps bigtime, it will also stop, repair and pinholes that may have been forming, the fuel pump has to be the mail problem, now, with a carb the pump is mechanically driven, it is on the passenger side of the block, since it will run with starting fluid the fuel pressure is the problem, holley makes a nice pump thats mechanical and you can adjust the position of the inlet and return /vent lines, good luckFuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
    THE PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE THE FUEL PUMP, CHECK FOE VOLTAGE AT THE FUEL PUMP WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS, YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A TEST LIGHT FROM KRAGEN OR SOMETHING. IF SO, THEN CHECK AND SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR IT, DO THIS BY TURNING ON THE IGNITION AND LISTEN FOR A LOW HUMMING NOISE. ALSO LOOK AND SEE IF ANY FUEL HOSE OR LINES ARE PINCHED. TELL ME IF IT HELPS.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
    First does it have a electric fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump if it has a mechanical fuel pump it could be worn out and leaking gas into the motor and not pumping it into the carb or if it has a electric fuel pump u could have a ground or power issue making the pump shut off now and then due to bumps (pot holes) in the road causing the wires to move and killing the pump so once u run out of the gas thats in the carb the car stalls out Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
    try the crankshaft position sensor,and the throttle position sensor if you have either one of those ,,,,

    also it sounds like your TIMING is off ..i don't think it is the timing chain though because you didn't mention a back fire.............i think your spark is hitting after the fuel has been released ....which leads me to think it may be your fuel pump .....i understand that it is about 7 months old but autozone has been having problems with fuel pumps the last few months..also check for a fuel relay for your vehicle......autozone.com has online repair manuals and troubleshooting guides and componet locator guides for many vehicles

    Hi,i am driving a Renault Megane Cabriolet 2001 1.6 16V.?

    any idea how much would it cost to change the flywheel sensor or the ignition coils?like to get an idea of the cost first before i go down to the workshop.thanks for helping.regards!Hi,i am driving a Renault Megane Cabriolet 2001 1.6 16V.?
    look the web site renault France tuning:



    http://www.creative-car-gillet.com/produ
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  • Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?

    I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)



    I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.

    Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)



    I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.



    I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.



    I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.



    I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)



    SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.



    I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.



    I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.



    http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe



    Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.



    Hope this helps!



    Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!%26quot;Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
    Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.



    Try www.cartalk.com



    Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
    Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.

    Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?

    I have a 1999 pontiac grand prix gt which is misfiring thus vibrating and sputerring. I have changed the coils packs and spark plugs as the car uses the COP ignition system. The problem comes and goes which tells me its not the fuel pump or system. I want to change the lower crank shaft sensor which I have been told can definietly cause my issue. How easily is this to do on my specific car and how expensive is a new lower crank shaft sensor? Are any pontiac/gms specific tools needed?Can anyone provide any specific schematics which will tell me how to do this? If you do can you please provide a link rather than just putting goto autozone.com....Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
    Crank and cam sensors don't generally give occasional problems.

    They either work, or they don't.



    Before you start yanking MORE parts, why not have the codes scanned?

    It's free to do at a bunch of places. Mostly at auto parts stores.



    The crank sensor is a pain in the *** to get to, but overall it's pretty simple.Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
    The sensor itself is generally a cheap part but replacing it is another story. You probably don't need any specific tools for the job but you're definitely going to need a torque wrench.



    But I doubt that's the actual problem. Distributor-less ignition means you may need to change the harnesses as well.Can a crank shaft sensor be changed by an oridnary person with ordinary tools on a 99 pontiac grand prix gt?
    I assume you own a lift, so yes, if you have tools and knowledge you can replace it. I assume the check engine light is on with this code as well, if not, then it's something else. As far as cost, use some common sense if you own a telephone and call a parts place.

    Ive got a sohc EFi engine with a distibutor (hall-effect) type ignition,.?

    can i change it/mod it to a waste-spark type twin coil/quad coil (Distributorless Ignition system).. or individual coil system? how its done?Ive got a sohc EFi engine with a distibutor (hall-effect) type ignition,.?
    Not likely unless there is a way to add a TDC sensor to it.Ive got a sohc EFi engine with a distibutor (hall-effect) type ignition,.?
    as a matter of fact yes... it can be done.. with good after market ECU...

    i'v seen one... the ecu just need the stock distributor (no leads) and it will figure the rest..

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    How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?

    right now all i got is 30 psi is that good are not good enough ,the plugs are firein but the motor will not even hit like it is going to start up , please give a list of things that could cause this. it was runing fine untill the vent hose came off of the dist cap and i got water in it then it got were it would if you kicked down on it it acted like a stopped up fuel filter and as long as i drove it easy it was fine untill the other day it quit on me and would not start up so i checked the plugs and they were not firein,so i changed the dist cap and they are firein now but it acts like it is not getting gas now . sorry for not being organized with this question but i really need some help with this. back when it was running i took it to a shop and hooked it up on a com. first they told me the knock sensor i changed that and did not work, took it back to the shop and they told me the coolent sensor was bad guess what? that didn't fix it. i have put a new fuel filter on it , changed the ignition module,new plugs, coil, so if you know anything else i need to check please tell me thanks for any helpHow much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
    1]. With engine %26quot;OFF%26quot;, ignition %26quot;ON%26quot;, and the fuel pump running pressure should 41.0 to 47.0 PSI Note: give it a blast of alternate fuel (choke cleaner in the throttle body and try it that way you will know if it is a fuel problem!!!) Then again you can just throw parts at it!!!How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
    I think the pressure should be a little higher... like 35-40 psi or something. If your motor is TPI, you should see a steady cone-shaped pattern of fuel being sprayed from the injectors into the intake. For MPI, hook a NOID light to the connector for each injector and see if you get pulsation (indicated by the light blinking on/off while cranking). If in both cases, neither is happening, then check for the signal thats supposed to come from the ECM... if no signal, then the ECM is your problem.How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
    Have you changed your pickup coil, it sits under your ignition module ? Might be your fuel system, but I'm not sure that you went deep enough on your ignition, since you said this all started with your distributor. I would also check all connections.How much fuel presure is a 95 caprice 5.7 need to have?
    you might want to change the fuel filter and then check it again. if the filter is dirty then it won,t read right.

    1999 Toyota Sienna Plug Wires and Ignition Coils replacement?

    Should I preemptively replace my plug wires and ignition coils at 150,000 miles and / or how should I know when to replace them?



    I'm about to do a 150,000 mile tune-up. I'm planning to do a Transmission Flush, oil %26amp; filter change, change spark plugs and replace valve cover seals (front is visibly leaking). At this point the engine runs great and has never blown a code.



    I know that Spark plug wires eventually degrade and that coils will eventually fail. Should I just wait until the engine blows codes, or should I replace earlier?1999 Toyota Sienna Plug Wires and Ignition Coils replacement?
    i would say to leave the coils alone and just do the plugs and wires and the other stuff you plain on doing.
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  • No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?

    I have a 98' Grand Am GT 3.1L V6 with 88k miles. As of this afternoon, the engine turns over but will not start. The engine is getting gas but no spark at any of the three coils. I don't think all three coils would go bad at the same time so I suspect the Ignition Control Module or a Camshaft Position Sensor may be bad.



    Is there anyway I can test the ICM or CPS with a meter? (Called Autozone and they can't test it. The Chilton book has no information about testing the ICM or CPS, only details how to take out and replace).



    The car had a full maintainence (new plugs, new wires, fluids changed, new filters all around) less than 1000 miles ago and was running great up until it wouldn't start this afternoon.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
    you might want to check the distributor cap, and the rotor inside it. that can be the cause of the problem, and it's an easy fix too. since it's getting gas, i don't think it has anything to do with then fuel pump, lines or filter. check the ecu to see if there's any code lights on it. sometimes ecu's don't set the check engine light off for certain codes. also, if the timing is off, the might not run either. anyways, hope this helps, and good luck!No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
    If you just had a full tune up less than 1000 miles ago, bring it to the place that performed the tune up. It is possible they could have used incorrect spark plugs and wires.



    But no, there is no way to use a meter to check your IPM or CPS. You can test individual sensors but it is a royal pain in the you know what. My guess is that you need a new coil pack for the three cylinders that are not firing or a crank sensor.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
    Ingition control module sounds good.But it all starts with the ECM it sends power to the ignition module.Also check for blown fuses esp the ecm fuse.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
    you need a schematic for your wiring. is there a fusible link in the system? the ignition module and cam or crank sensor are good ideas but if you have it scanned it should have a code set. I'm not sure about your model but some GM's you can jump the diagnostic connector and get the codes with the check engine light. check the advance auto or auto zone sites for instructions for that.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
    CHECK ALL FUSES THEN HAVE IGNITION MODULE CHECKED AT LOCAL PARTS STORE ,ALSO CHECK CRANK SENSOR,CAM SENSOR,CAN BE COMPUTERNo spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
    replace suspected coils.

    How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?

    I done a simle tune up. i got it all changed spark plugs, wires, rotor button, distributor cap, now it cranks but wont start. getting good fire from coil just none from distributor to plugs?How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
    Double check to see if your rotor and cap are both seated correctly.How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
    take out all the guess work out of it take it to like a auto-zone they test it for freeHow can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
    If you had a bad ignition control module you wouldn't get any spark from the coil at all. Your problem lies in the wires. Either the coil wire is not inserted all the way at both ends which is why there is no power at the distributor or some of the wires are switched. I am thinking the wires are switched or not inserted all the way and are not making a good contact. Sure to make sure they are all making contacts.

    I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won't start.?

    I have changed the spark plugs, had the ignition coil pack and module checked out okay and the fuel pumps okay. BUT still no start. Someone mention a %26quot;chip%26quot;(?) - What is it and where or how do I check it out without having it towed to a licenced mechanic which I cannot afford. Is there something else I am missing?I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
    It needs a fuel pump. Not an uncommon repair on a Sunfire. The best way to verify this is to listen when you turn the key on, but don't attempt to crank the engine. Do you hear a short, maybe 2 second hum from under the vehicle? That's the fuel pump priming. If you don't hear it, the pump is finished.



    With regard to the other posters, I have never in 10 years seen a fuel filter cause a concern of this nature.I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
    You need 3 elements to make a motor run: Air, Spark, and Fuel



    Spark- you already changed the plugs and had the ignition coil checked out, so we can eliminate that. Just make sure all the wire are correctly placed on the distributor.



    Air- I doubt anything is prevent air from going into the combustion chambers. eliminate that



    Fuel- 1) Make sure you have gas. 2) Check that your fuel filter isnt clogged. 3) Make sure your getting fuel pressure on the rails. On your fuel rail (where the fuel injectors connect to) their should be a shraeder valve. It looks like valve stem on a bike tire or car tire. Depress the pin; if you get a mist of fuel, you have pressure. If you dont get any fuel, or it leaks out slowly, this indicates a faulty fuel pump. 4) when you turn the key to the on position (but not turning the engine over), listen careful and see if you can hear the fuel pump cycle. If not, faulty pump. 5) check fuel pump fuseI have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2liter- cranks over but won%26039;t start.?
    could be a fuse, or a bad or lose engine ground being as old as the car is replace the engine ground its old and corrugated try wiggling the engine ground around this may be a temporary fix to get it started

    My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?

    i have changed my maruthi car ignition coil to avoid miss firing it is reduced up to some extent but not totall how can avoid this problem. I am using gas to run the carMy care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
    get it serviced...My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
    Consult the dealer for after-sales-service!My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
    what can i say except to consult a dealer who should be able to solve the problem for good.My care maruthi 800 is getting miss firing at engine?
    800 is very easy like mopet . ladies like too. it is mechanical problem, go to good mechanical show it.

    How do you know if timing is bad on a 90 ford probe?

    i have a 90 ford probe and it tries to crank over just wont start i changed the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, and ignition coil. and it still wont start. how do u tell if the timing is bad? do you have any other suggestions?How do you know if timing is bad on a 90 ford probe?
    The Probes distributors were notorious for going bad, I'd start there and have it checked out!
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  • Should I replace the pick up coil?

    What should I check if my truck is jumping like it isn't getting fuel? I have changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, spark wires, and the distributor cap. Some one told me that it may be the pick up coil or ignition coil. What would the symptoms of this be and how can I tell if it needs to be replaced?Should I replace the pick up coil?
    could be plugged catalytic converter. maybe intake leak. probably should clean the carbuerator or throttle body with carb/choke cleaner.Should I replace the pick up coil?
    take the coil or pickup coil to a parts house and they can check it for youShould I replace the pick up coil?
    year of auto really helps

    my email is openShould I replace the pick up coil?
    It depends what vehicle,and how old it is,etc.Yes,your pick up coil could do this,as could the ignition coil.So could a bad gas cap and fuel pressure regulator.Should I replace the pick up coil?
    have you checked the timing?Should I replace the pick up coil?
    what make and model and engine? it could be a flat cam? does it do it under a load? idle?

    Misfire, High Hydrocarbons, what is happening?

    Okay my problem is symptoming misfires.

    I just got inspection done and my hydrocarbons are wayyyyy up.First time this has happened.



    Here's what is good on the truck, or recently changed:

    *Timing Chain

    *Ignition coil

    *Wires, plugs, cap and rotor

    *EGR valve

    *Fuel Filter

    *Fuel Pump- non-electric

    *Distributor does not have the side piece with a vacuum line attached-this model runs it to the computer,

    which is where the canister is- with the vac line attached.

    *New pickup in Distributor at correct gap requirements.(It's a single not dual.)

    *New computer also.

    *No O2 sensor!-it doesn't have one that I can find and I HAVE looked the whole exhaust system over.

    Transmission fluid and filter just changed.



    This truck had mostly original manufactured parts- as they are going out I replace them with new ones.

    The carbuerator is new--I do need to get it adjusted with Tachometer.

    I still have yet to run a vacuum test but I've looked over the tubes and all are okay.

    I have passed the emissions test here in Texas before without problems.

    My compression is good in all cylinders.

    Engine is 5.2 318 V8 2BBL with a Holley Carburetor 6280

    I checked to see if AIR pump was working and it's pumping good steady air, the diverter is also okay.



    How bad does the catalytic converter need to get before it causes trouble? I don't know how old the one I have on it is.

    I don't hear any rattling noises in it.



    Rear wheel drive, D150 body. I say Body because I'm not exactly sure that the engine is the same that the

    truck came with as far as type of engine. The book says it has an O2 sensor but I have not seen one in the engine or the

    exhaust areas,not even a plugged whole.

    I've been trying to diagnose as much as possible through the Chilton or Haynes manual but as most of you

    know they can be vague sometimes with particulars.

    I have 10 days left to get the emission test redone without paying for it.

    I need thoughts suggestions and answers.

    I say again it has passed emissions before with out any fails( with a jacked up timing chain).

    I'm all ears. I'm looking for answers from experienced Mechs.Misfire, High Hydrocarbons, what is happening?
    one thing you failed to mention was the year of the truck,tell me that and im sure someone on here can help you figure this one out, from what you have said and done to it though it sounds like the carburetor hasn't been adjusted right on it yet,good luck.Misfire, High Hydrocarbons, what is happening?
    I added the year of the truck to the post. I have been checking other forums like dodge talk and they say I have to plug the vac line to the computer to adjust the timing and the idle. I'm also troubleshooting if there is a loose ground somewhere.

    Report Abuse

    Misfire, High Hydrocarbons, what is happening?
    Take it to a shop that has the equipment to tune it right.Misfire, High Hydrocarbons, what is happening?
    Sounds like the carb is tuned rich and needs adjustment.

    How hard would it be to change the following on a 1988' jeep wranlger 4.2 6cyl...?

    ignition system, coil, ignition switch, ignition module...or to check if they are working rightHow hard would it be to change the following on a 1988%26039; jeep wranlger 4.2 6cyl...?
    real easy, if you know what you are doing or looking for. My guess is you have no spark. start from the starter relay to the ballast resitor and on if you can find them get a qualified mechanic to look aat it before you thow parts and money at it and the truck still wont startHow hard would it be to change the following on a 1988%26039; jeep wranlger 4.2 6cyl...?
    fairly easy..

    it's an inline 6, the coil is 3minute swap, ignition system, meaning plugs and wires.. pretty easy to change those.

    ignition switch is under dashboard, probably mounted to steering column on the topside.

    module is either under the distributor cap or mounted close to it.How hard would it be to change the following on a 1988%26039; jeep wranlger 4.2 6cyl...?
    No more than a 100 dollar job at the chop shop.How hard would it be to change the following on a 1988%26039; jeep wranlger 4.2 6cyl...?
    Easy just like the others noted. The thing here is what are you trying to fix?

    How do i set the ignition timing on my 94 zx6-e bike?

    I am having a problem getting my bike to start, it will roll over but won't fire. Checked/changed plugs, wires and coils and carbs are good and gas flow is good. I've just about given up but was recently told the only thing left is that the timing is off. If someone can help me fix this it would be Awesome!!!! ThanksHow do i set the ignition timing on my 94 zx6-e bike?
    it sounds to me like you need a manual or a shop. If you do not know what you are doing it may never run again.

    My 1976 ford f150 has started to lose power when accelerating from a dead stop and shakes until I speed up?

    I replaced the air and fuel filter and have been told by many mechanics that its the ignition coil. How hard is it to change out? Can someone explain it to me?My 1976 ford f150 has started to lose power when accelerating from a dead stop and shakes until I speed up?
    It's very easy if you work around cars any at all. It's the part that all the spark plug wires go to on top of the engine. Should only be about 4 bolts to remove it. Just be sure to mark the wires as you remove them so you can get them back on in the proper order.
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  • Why does my car keep stalling?

    I have a 1985 nissan maxima which is in great condition other than the fact it all of a sudden started to stall. At first I thought it was the oil so I got it changed. Then we replaced the ignition coil and still it keeps stalling. We replaced the fuel filter even though it was getting plenty of gas. My uncle thinks it may have something to do with the security system but we don't know how to turn it off. The car manual doesn't say anything about it. Does anyone know how to turn it off? Or, does anyone have any suggestions?Why does my car keep stalling?
    Check the following;

    1. fuel pump might be malfunctioning

    2. fuel pump relay starts to fail

    3. spark plugs needs replacement

    Hope this help!Why does my car keep stalling?
    well when does it shut off

    Ex. At idle, when you floor it., when the engines cold/hot.?Why does my car keep stalling?
    yea does it stall soon as you crank it, at idle, under a load, what? it could be as simple as a vaccum leak. i would check that first. look all around the intake and see if any vaccum lines have came off.Why does my car keep stalling?
    Your security system, if it has one, would keep it from starting in the first place, so I doubt that that would be a concern. If it stalls at an idle, check for vacuum leaks and the idle air control valve. if it stalls at highway speeds check electronics, like your distributor and mass air flow sensor.Why does my car keep stalling?
    Definitely not the security system.



    Probably just needs a tune up, or if that doesn't help, some plug wires. This year Maxima had carbs and fuel injection depending on the car you bought. If it's a carb model, it may need some work.



    There are really so many things it could be, it's hard to say for sure.Why does my car keep stalling?
    Air/Fuel/Spark.. your not getting one of them.

    oil has nothing to do with it infact you can still start

    a car with no oil.

    How do i find what wire was eaten?

    The computer popped up the code it was the ignition coil so we changed it and it started once and died he ran the computer again and the guy said it seems some mice ate through the wires somewhere but he doesnt know where so he has to go searching,, i was just wondering how hard this was going to be to find what wire was eaten.. it wont start... thats the only clue we haveHow do i find what wire was eaten?
    thats going to be hell.How do i find what wire was eaten?
    Call Terminex! They keep pests in their place, and their place is not in a computer.

    How do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?

    I own a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6 3.8L Auto. I'm about 98% sure the ignition coil has gone out but I want to test it anyway. I have Chilton's repair manual and I'm honestly not getting a clue how to do this. I'm not stupid, I do most all routine maintenance myself (oil changes, trans fluid changes, spark plugs, brakes, etc) but this guide is just worded poorly. Can someone please explain to me how I can use my volt/ohm meter to check the ignition coil?!? THANKS!



    Here's a picture of the same ignition coil that's in my car:

    http://www.v6mustangstuff.com/images/6CyHow do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
    The first thing is to think of your coil pack as 3 separate ignition coils, with each pair of high tension towers feeding one pair of cylinders. You have a 4 (small) pin electrical connector on that unit. 1 wire (coil pwr, B+) is common to the primary windings of all 3 coils, while the other 3 each are the other end of the circuit for the primary for one coil. So you want to connect one lead of your ohmmeter to the coil power terminal, and the other to each of the other terminals one at a time. This checks the 3 primary windings. In order to check the secondary windings, simply connect your ohmmeter to 1 pair of high tension terminals at a time, in pairs of 1+5, 2+6, and 3+4.



    http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/



    Couldn't find the specs for your Mustang, but I just coincidentally had answered a question concerning a '98 Contour before this, and they should be the same or at least pretty close to the same specs.



    %26quot;Measure coil primary resistance between ignition coil pin 4 (B+) and pins 1 (coil 2), 2 (coil 3) and 3 (coil 1).



    Resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms. If resistance is out of specifications, replace the coil pack. If resistance is within specifications, proceed to secondary windings testing.



    Measure coil secondary resistance between the corresponding spark plug wire towers on the coil.



    Resistance should be 12.8-13.1 kilohms (1,000 ohm scale). If secondary resistance is not within specification, replace the coil pack.%26quot;How do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
    pull a spark plug replace it back into end wire lay on metal

    crank over motor see spark if works



    type into search box



    how to check a car coilHow do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
    Go to your local machanic they'll know whats best

    Suzuki bandit600 starts fine runs fine then all of a sudden it starts running on 2 cylinders out of the blue!?

    The bike runs fine with no noises at first but then 1 hour through the journey the bike will loose a cylinder or 2 and loose alot of power and a grrrrrr noise. (I had to take the bike when the cylinders were not working otherwise they would just say its working), so when my bike was running on less cylinders I quickly took it to the garage and they told me its the Ignition coil. They changed it for a NEW coil and the bike started running on all 4 . At the moment its fine but what if it happens again! What i dont get is , how can my OLD coil work then stop working and then work again? Could my problem be something else like faulty cylinders or faulty sparkplugs?



    ThanksSuzuki bandit600 starts fine runs fine then all of a sudden it starts running on 2 cylinders out of the blue!?
    coil is what id say as well so now what part the coil gets it fire from and spark plugs should have been first thing to have replace



    wait you say

    its working now just fine at moment right

    cause you said what if it happens again!



    did they fix it or not?



    a bad coil will over heat and stop working or fail when it cools it wil start again

    What else should I do on tune-up of 2002 Ford F-150?

    I am quickly approaching 100K miles and am planning on changing plugs and wires, and ignition coil boot. I just changed the fuel filter today, and the air filter about 5,000 miles ago. I'm doing a little at a time since I'll get platinum plugs and wires and they are pricey to me.



    My husband thinks we should also change all the belts and hoses. My father is a mechanic and I was raised in his shop, and I've never been taught to change those until they are worn out or you actually have a problem. You should know that my husband knows nothing about vehicles except how to change his oil. I've taught him several things about it over the past couple of years. His line of thinking is that he'd rather change them now so that there's less possibility of me breaking down later. I see that line of reasoning, but I just don't think it's necessary.



    I need opinions other than my dad's. Please cite sources, preferably websites I can go to, so that I can be convinced or convince him.What else should I do on tune-up of 2002 Ford F-150?
    To answer your questions, The 02 F-150 does not have plug wires,they have Coil On Plug, basically u need to remove the coil packs and inspect the boots if they look bad replace them ones from your local Ford Dealer, also when replacing the plugs use Ford (Motorcraft) spark plugs, The reason i recommend this is because i am a technican at a ford dealership and we see alot of driveability problems from Bosch and other brands of spark plugs,so buy ford only. As for the hoses and belts i recommend replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses and the serpentine belt only if it has numerous small cracks or the belt is frayed. As for any other things it sounds like replacing the fuel filter and air filter was a good idea..the one thing i would do is go to your local NAPA auto parts store and buy a can of SEA FOAM. and pour the entire contents into your fuel tank this will help keep your injectors clean and i promise you that u will see an increase in MPG. This is the only type of cleaner that i recommend putting into your gas..As for the rest of the vehicle i would also change the front and rear differential fluids it will take 75w140 synthetic,also check the tag on the rear differential cover it will say something like 3.L73 this is your gear ratio if it has the L u will need the positive traction additve if there is no L it is a non locking rear end and no additive is needed, if u have any futher questions feel free to email me...hope this helps..What else should I do on tune-up of 2002 Ford F-150?
    change the hoses and belts.

    they don't break down until your way out in the sticksWhat else should I do on tune-up of 2002 Ford F-150?
    dont fix it till its broke........or drive it till it drops....its your choice !What else should I do on tune-up of 2002 Ford F-150?
    Well it sounds like you've made up your mind about changing those belts so do it. Other wise look for cracks or burns and if there is none you could try tightening them. You may want to consider changing oil types as it is high mileage and perhaps give a radiator flush depending on your location.What else should I do on tune-up of 2002 Ford F-150?
    if the belt is badly cracked, if its glazed and shiny or if it looks frayed at all then you should replace it. if any of the hoses are crunchy when squeezed, oil soaked or have any bulges in them then change those particular ones. you can easily check the condition of these things so i wouldn't replace them until they need it.What else should I do on tune-up of 2002 Ford F-150?
    Fords recommended service interval PDF:



    http://v8sho.com/SHO/1998%20ford%20servi



    http://www.zjstech.net/~library/2290/200



    Basically... Ford recommends belts done every 100,000miles and hoses inspected regularly...





    My personal professional recommendation... Replace the belts if they look excessively cracked or worn... Keep the worn belts for a back-up set. The hoses... replace only when required
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  • How to change spark plug on gas echo trimmer and spark plug wire on B&S mower?

    spark plug wire as in %26quot;ignition coil%26quot; the magnet wire by flywheel with wire to it to spark plugHow to change spark plug on gas echo trimmer and spark plug wire on B%26amp;S mower?
    You can't change the spark plug wire on the B%26amp;S without changing the whole coil. The wire is molded into the coil. If you take the model number and type number off the shroud to your local B%26amp;S dealer, they can get you the right coil, and maybe put it o for you.How to change spark plug on gas echo trimmer and spark plug wire on B%26amp;S mower?
    If you don`t know how to change a spark plug on a trimmer, then I doubt you will ever figure out how to unscrew a spark plug wire and replace it.

    What will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?

    ok i have a 93 acura legend and one of the coil packs is pinging. it makes a loud noise and i don't really know how important these things are and even what they do. how important are they? it seems simple to change but i would like to know how important they are and how long can i drive with one being bad? could anything bad happen if i continue to drive with one of them being bad? is there anyway i can repair it without having to change it out? please let me knowWhat will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?
    Well... if a coil pack is bad your car will run very poorly. Secondly, coil packs don't %26quot;ping%26quot;. You need do do some more investigation and ask a different question. Good luck to you.What will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?
    You say you don't know, but you know what they are called, etc. why?



    I only ask because some people just throw around the ONLY WORD / NAMES they know - and makes true diagnostics difficult.

    ===

    The ignition coil (if that is exactly the broken part) is the part that generated high voltage to IGNITE the gasoline.



    If the ignition coil is bad, it is most like to make your engine run bad or not at all. They don't make your car PING (PINGING is specific engine problem - not just a name of noise).



    But PINGING (if that is what is really happening) can really destroy your engine from inside out.

    ===

    Since bad ignition coil does NOT cause pinging, it makes me wonder if you are just using the only word to describe, but inaccurately, what you hear. No offense.







    Good Luck..What will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?
    bad coil dont ping if its bad most like the car wil miss or not run at all any pings you hear most of time is fuel and you cant repair a bad coilWhat will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?
    If You have a Bad Coil Pack it will be Affecting Your Driveablity;

    Coil Pack-Ign. Wires Break down as Car is warmed up;What will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?
    your ignition coil packs might be badWhat will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?
    wont start pre ignition run out of time can blow motorWhat will happen if you have bad ignition coil packs?
    might cause a cylinder to miss

    and your engine will run like crap

    89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?

    autozone online is saying that the distributor has to be removed to change these parts, im wondering if i should buy a whole new distributor, but a new one cost $140, if i just buy the parts its only like $60.. anyone know how long it takes to swap out a distributor?? just trying to be cost efficient yet get my truck to stop stalling after driving for a half hour. i never have messed with a distributor before so im wondering the difficulty would be to do it myself, either just the parts or the whole distributor.. any advice would be cool, thanks :)89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?
    Hey Matt,



    The most cost effective and least labor intensive is to the replace the whole distributor. This way you know that the parts are installed correctly.It is easy to replace as long as you pay attentionto what you are doing.



    The way to remove the distributor is this way.

    1. Disconnect the battery (to prevent accidental engine movement)

    2. remove the cap and using white out mark the direction that the rotor points to and position of housing(3 marks, 1 on rotor, 1 on housing, 1 on firewall or engine noting relation to cap keyway)

    3. use distributor wrench and loosen lock down bolt and push back clamp latch(be careful the oil pressure sending unit is close and will break if you slip)

    4. remove distributor noting that the rotor will turn back a little during removal. this is the drive gear disengaging camshaft.

    5. transfer markings and rotor to new distributor

    6. install turning rotor back slightly(Example original rotor pointed to the 12 o'clock position. Turn rotor back to 10 or 11 o'clock then install turning rotor forward untill the rotor catches the camshaft gear.Note that the distributor also drives the oil pump, so if it does not seat completely to the intake, the oil pump drive rod is misaligned.

    7. all marks should realign relatively close. snug clamp latch and bolt so that it will not turn easily, but will turn when light,firm force is applied.

    8. install cap, reconnect battery, start truck, reset timing according to specs. with timing light, tighten lockdown bolt.



    Let me know if you have any questions.89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?
    You don't want to mess w/ the distributor without someone who knows what they are doing because it sets your timing. If you timing is off the valve could contact the piston and you'll be rebuilding an engine. Also I don't believe your problem is in the ignition system if it's stalling after a half hour. An electrical problem should either happen all the time or under load. I would rather think you have a carburetor problem. Probably some crap around the jets, it doesn't take much to screw with the fuel flow.89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?
    Yes you do have to pull the distributor to change the pick up coil, at least most cars you do.

    I would say that the hardest part is getting the dist. out and back in again correctly. Once you have it out it is not hard to change the coil. Get a repair manual and check it out. See if you're up to it. Otherwise put it in the shop. You won' t ruin your engine , don't worry . I don't have a clue where some of these guys get their info.89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?
    If you have HEI ignition then all the parts you want to replace are located inside the distributor under the cap. The distributor does not need to come out, just mark number one cylinder. If you want to replace the distributor then you need to %26quot;bump%26quot; the motor to top dead center. Remove the retaining nut that holds the distributor in place and pull straight up. To replace, you need to turn the distributor so it will fire number one cylinder, drop into place, tighten bolt then break out with the timing light and set to manufacture recommendations.89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?
    ok matt here we go if it is stalling after about half hour check coil first -----then module dont remove distributo for either of these ----if it is the pick up more than likely take you hours to do -(me 15minutes tops) put a mark on your dist. cap to the dist. then mark a spot on your firewall from marks from cap/dist.when you put it back in be in the same place --angles make it differnt-but you realize you have to take dist apart to replace pick up --dont you --go for coil and module first -i havehad to replace 3 pick up coils in 25 years feel freee to e-mail me89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?
    it,s not too hard to do the most important thing is to put the dist. back in the same spot i would crank the engine over so the rotor faces straight back or straight forward so you have to take the cap off first than if you don't have a timing light mark the base of the dist with a punch and do the same with the block mark the block not the dist. hold down clamp so when you drop the dist back in first piont the rotor to the front or back whichever way you took it out than line up the two punch marks and bolt it down.if the dist gives you trouble dropping in the bottom of the also drives the oil pump it has a flat (like a flat screwdriver) and the oil pump has a slotted hole to match up. if it gives you trouble going in you may have look down into the hole the dist came out of and using a long flat screwdriver to turn the pump manually just make shure you drop the dist in it points exaclly the way you took it out. if you don't use a timing light and rely on the two punch marks if your timing was off a little it will be off a little if not it should be right on. make shure no one turns the engine over until you are finished89 S-10, wanting to replace the Ignition control module, and probably the pick up coil in the distributor..?
    Just had that done in my 85 Ck. onesmartass2 is on the money, BUT I wanted the distributor replaced so I had a mcehanic do it for $275, parts and labor. Why? Because it is guaranteed, the timing is set right, and they know what they are doing. It is worth the money.

    How do I know which cylinder is number 5.?

    I am getting a code for cylinder 5 misfire. I would like to change the plug boot and ignition coil. The problem is I don't know which cylinder is number 5.



    Ford F-250

    1997

    V8 5.4LHow do I know which cylinder is number 5.?
    OK the Number 5 cylinder is at the front of the compartment drivers side, they number 1-4 front to back on pass side then 5-8 on the drivers side front to back. this is usually a bad plug what it looks at is the computer and then the O2 sensor sees how much unburned is passed. you might have a bad, plug, wire or the dist is dirty.How do I know which cylinder is number 5.?
    3rd one back on the pass. side.How do I know which cylinder is number 5.?
    Cylinder closest to the radiator on the driver's side. Those engines are known for the coils going bad. Instead of a plug, wire, and distributor they have a coil that sits on top of each spark plug so you have to replace the whole thing. About $62 at Autozone. Change the plug too because it probably fouled out. Just be careful to get it in straight when the engine is cold so you don't damage the threads.

    Saturday, November 20, 2010

    How to test ignition coil with ohhmeter?

    I have a 1989 camaro v6 2.8and need to test ignition coil because it will shut down automatically after it heats up and change gears. People have told me to check the MAP sensor and camshaft sensor but my car i believe doesnt have any of these, it has an MAF sensor.The wires in the ignition coil are broken in some parts. Ive tried to test it but get 0 reading am i doin it right? What does it mean? And how is infinite reading displayed in the multimeter? ThanksHow to test ignition coil with ohhmeter?
    let me answer the questions in reverse. infinite on mine is displayed as OL (out of limits). if you do not have the ignition on while you are testing you will not get a voltage the car is fuel injected and has an electronic ignition so it will have a crank position sensor. the map and map are two different systems really. the maf tells the computer how much air is flowing into the engine and the map tells it what kind of a load is on the engine.How to test ignition coil with ohhmeter?
    My husband says %26quot;dump the factory coil and replace with a Mallory Hy-Fire or other high intensity coil for better performance and milage. Don't test it-replace it. The cost of the new one is less the trouble of the old.%26quot;How to test ignition coil with ohhmeter?
    Ohm readings are great start but they do change with amp flow since the heat will change your readings.. I would replace the coil, you could see a good reading until warm. You could let it run until it dies then test you should get a OL (open circuit or infinity)How to test ignition coil with ohhmeter?
    You say that the wires in the ignition coil are broken in some parts???

    If you are talking about your plug wires then they definately need to be replaced because they will arc out and if you are talking about wires that connect to the coil then they need to be repaired also. I also agree with the mechanic who answered that it could be the crankshaft position sensor/engine crank sensor as I have seen them act up after a vehicle warms up. The car I had would start up fine and after warm up it would just die and after the engine cooled down it would start up again.
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  • Distributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?

    i have a 91 chevy c1500 tbi obd1 with a 305 bored to .60nds over 9.5:1 compression heads and a mild cam but i have heard a lot about how much more powerful and efficiant the coil on plug systems are compared to distributor ignition and i was wanting to check out how i might go about finding a kit to convert as far as i can see the only real problems i will have are the cps and ignition timing...i got to thinking and since i have have recently upped the amount of gas that is poured into each cylinder that maybe it would benefit me at higher rpms where distributors have a hard time keeping up to change to c.o.p or coil pack to get a little more umpff....i am not all that experienced in performance although i have been and still am a technitian.....would this be worth the time or do they make a better distributor that would benefit me just the same.....tell me what you think and if you know of any kits or whatever i would like to know and check them out for myselfDistributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?
    While the coil over plug set up would offer better top end performance, I have never seen a kit that offers this kind of conversion. you are looking at a completely different computer. It could be had with a 2nd computer to control the coil packs. but you are also looking at different cam and crank sensors to keep the packs firing correctly. Unless there is something to install inside the distributor to maintain timing. I don't know how you would mount the sensors. Going with an MSD ignition should resolve you top end performance and would be more cost effective then a coil over plug set up.Distributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?
    All you need is an HEI distributor and a MSD 6AL box. You could even get a fancy MSD distributor if you want. Leave the coil packs for the newer LS engines with fuel injection.Distributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?
    just buy a MSD or similar aftermarket ignition system....... they have them on the shelf at any parts store........the ones on the shelf are good to about 800 horses so u should b ok..........

    Automotive mechanic's question?

    Hi there all. I am a single mom, one left in college, and a grandma on retirement which means no money to throw around anywhere! Please help if you can. I have a 2002 Ford Focus with no problems and I maintain well. It has 131,000 miles though and I am trying to keep it going for another 2 years, until daughter graduates. Question: Do I need to change the ignition coils when I chnage the spark plugs and wires? How My serpentine belt not have problem but I just replaced anyway since car so many miles. What kinds of things do I really want to do to make sure that my car lasts as long as possible. Thanks so much, Sue.Automotive mechanic%26039;s question?
    look in to having the timming belt changed as for the coil pack no you don't need that changedAutomotive mechanic%26039;s question?
    no you dont need coils renewed,most important is oil and filter change dont let it go further than a year/12000mls also throw an air filter in then,they are very cheap.. the rest you will notice bad plugs-engine runs bad,bad tyres-cornering problems/control problems, bad breaks-audible notification,bad wipers-no vision and so on. the fact that you've had it so long you might find it worth while to look into a brake fluid change,p/s fluid change and coolant change, peace out

    Renault Megane shuddering and central locks itself when setting off. Is this a bad earth?

    I have a 51 (Sept 2001) reg Renault Megane. The other day the car started shuddering and shaking and sometimes when accelerating it is as if there is no power, or it is very intermittent. I've had this problem before and changed an Ignition Coil and that has solved it, however, now it has stopped doing that and other problems have started. Upon setting off, the car will central lock itself, and it still feel a bit ropey to drive. Not sure if this is connected, but I have also noticed that using the electric windows makes the headlights flicker/dim.



    Someone suggested it could be a bad earth. I do not know what this is or how to fix. Can anyone shed any light on this?



    Renault Megane shuddering and central locks itself when setting off. Is this a bad earth?Renault Megane shuddering and central locks itself when setting off. Is this a bad earth?
    The shuddering was most probably caused by a misfire and that may even be due to one of the coils getting damp, or one of the coils is on it's way out. It might be worth just removing the coils and checking them for any signs of damp. The central locking operating when you pull away is normal ! Renault fitted a system called r.a.i.d (renault anti intrusion device), this system locks all the doors once you get over 6 mph. It can be turned on/off by turning on the ignition and pressing and holding the central locking button, keep the button pressed until you hear a beep to signal the system has switched on or off.

    93 Honda civic Si does not fire?

    Hi I need help. I had this problem 3 times earlier. For example one time when I stopped the car to fill gas, I did not fire. I waited for 2-3 minutes and it started. This thing happened on two more occassions.

    Then one month back, it did not start at all. I had to get it towed to a workshop. The mechanic changed my distributor and it started. But it had same problem after one day. Next time he changed its ignition coil and it started again and ran for 3 days and then again did not start.

    Every time this problem has come only after it has has been stopped after some driving and would not atart again.

    I do not know how much more I can spend on it and else where to get help.

    93 Honda civic Si does not fire?
    there is a main relay on that car that controls the fuel injection and spark. chances are the relay is going open circuit and causeing the no start condition. The main relay problems were very common on honda's from 1990-1993 though more common on the Accord they do happen on the civic as well. If you are losing spark as seems to be the case based on what the mechanic had done in the past then the main relay is probably why.



    hope that helps93 Honda civic Si does not fire?
    check the alternator

    How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?

    Ok, so my Honda started Idling when I'm on a stop light. I changed spark plugs and wires. Still did it.



    Changed cracked ignition coil and still did it. Changed cap and rotor and still did it. I pull the wires/strings for accelator and does it less but still does it from time to time. What can be wrong, I'm getting frustrated. The engine idles from time to time. Like it misfires and struggles to start early in the morning. The Car has 142000 miles..How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
    Check your fuel pump and fuel pump relay if they are functioning properly. Have this check by a good Honda mechanic. Hope this might help!How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
    Have you had the codes run on the car, the computer may have tripped a code causing thisHow do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
    Honda made crappy cars that year. Many have had transmission issues and oil pan gasket issues.
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  • Engine on a 2001 chevy prizm?

    My engine is running either too ?

    i have changed the spark plugs and changed the ignition coils to see if that will work( at first it was saying that i had a miss fire) now they are saying it might be the oxeygen sensor or the mass air flow sensor. it is a 2001 chevrolet prizm. how can i find out which sensor it is so that i don't waste money it is almost 400 to get all 3 sensors ( there are two oxygen sensors to change)

    4 hours ago - 3 days left to answer.

    Additional Details



    41 seconds ago

    i already had the test run its saying that it is running lean or richEngine on a 2001 chevy prizm?
    Lean/rich does NOT mean the O2 sensors are bad!



    Go ahead and spend $400 on good parts.



    That's more than the shop visit you could make!



    --------------------------------------?br>








    It seems as though the check engine light and O2 Sensor codes have always gone hand in hand. I can檛 even begin to tell you how many perfectly good sensors I檝e seen replaced for a rich/lean code, or as a cure to a service engine light that comes and goes. Fact is, when oxygen sensors were first being used, they did tend to fail. But manufacturers have been redesigning and tweaking these parts for over twenty years, and nowadays they are fairly bullet proof! Oxygen sensor codes no longer mean %26quot;replace the oxygen sensor%26quot;, and this mindset can be costly! So what goes wrong during the diagnosis of these systems? Well, let me share my experience and you can take it for what it檚 worth!









    There are a large number of codes relating to oxygen sensor faults. There are also a lot of faults that are often incorrectly thought to be caused by a bad oxygen sensor (also referred to as an O2 Sensor).

    Engine on a 2001 chevy prizm?
    Then that is the O2 sensors. Which one? They should be able to tell you that.

    2001 chevy prizm engine light?

    My engine is running either too ?

    i have changed the spark plugs and changed the ignition coils to see if that will work( at first it was saying that i had a miss fire) now they are saying it might be the oxeygen sensor or the mass air flow sensor. it is a 2001 chevrolet prizm. how can i find out which sensor it is so that i don't waste money it is almost 400 to get all 3 sensors ( there are two oxygen sensors to change)

    4 hours ago - 3 days left to answer.

    Additional Details



    i got it tested at auto zone

    i already had the test run its saying that it is running lean or rich



    if i spent the money and got the 100 dollar diagnostic would this be more specific as to what needs fixed2001 chevy prizm engine light?
    I told you already in your last post.



    You need to make a shop visit.



    Lean/rich codes from O2s does not mean the O2's are bad. They are doing EXACTLY what they are supposed to do!



    Spending $400 got nothing done, so get it done right!

    My engine is running either too ?

    i have changed the spark plugs and changed the ignition coils to see if that will work( at first it was saying that i had a miss fire) now they are saying it might be the oxeygen sensor or the mass air flow sensor. it is a 2001 chevrolet prizm. how can i find out which sensor it is so that i don't waste money it is almost 400 to get all 3 sensors ( there are two oxygen sensors to change)My engine is running either too ?
    If its a 2001, and still running poorly it should be throwing a check engine light. All vehicles after 1996 are OBD-2. Have the code read for free at an Autozone or Advance and go from there. My engine is running either too ?
    Its not necessarily the o2 sensor. You may want to have your mass airflow meter cleaned. Sometimes if those two sensors don't %26quot;agree%26quot;, it will throw a code for the o2 when its not really the problem.

    Report Abuse

    My engine is running either too ?
    I seriously don't trust auto mechanics. I didn't know chevy made 2001 prizms. You should start looking for a new car if it's already giving you troubles. How many miles are on this car?My engine is running either too ?
    run a test on the computer and see what codes come up.

    Is it OK to clean a Coill - on - Plug Ignition Coil?

    Changing spark plugs, I noticed that some ignition coils' dilectric grease / boot protector lube was discolored-- yellow %26amp; %26quot;pasty%26quot;-- appearing to no longer have luricating qualities. Is it OK to clean %26quot; Coil - on -Plug %26quot; (%26quot;C.O.P.%26quot;) type spring - coils / boots, %26amp; if so, how-- Brake cleaner?

    =%26gt; 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis (Crown Vic), 4.6L, V8Is it OK to clean a Coill - on - Plug Ignition Coil?
    It is ok, just grease it before you put things back together, and remember where everything goes.



    Good luck.



    PS: Use electric connector cleaner at Menard's, Napa...etcIs it OK to clean a Coill - on - Plug Ignition Coil?
    get qtip and some of the non conducting grease from home depot/electrical dept/and qtip it in there/do not use brake clean/name is silicone grease

    I have trouble codes P0301 and P0351 which is a cylinder 1 misfire and Ignition coil A malfunction... HELP?

    Both of these codes came back when i had them read. Now i was told it is the coil pack on the first cylinder going bad. However i bought one and changed it out.. and the problem is still there.. so wat could it be. How can i check to see if maybe my plug wire or plug itself is bad?I have trouble codes P0301 and P0351 which is a cylinder 1 misfire and Ignition coil A malfunction... HELP?
    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

    P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction



    Generally a coil pack runs two spark plugs so a bad coil pack would affect not one, but two plugs generally. Plus you've already found that out by changing out the coil pack.



    That leaves a problem in the number one, plug gap perhaps, but more likely the plug wire. I'd probably do both, change out the plug and replace the wire, and see if the problem comes back.I have trouble codes P0301 and P0351 which is a cylinder 1 misfire and Ignition coil A malfunction... HELP?
    Usually the easy way is swap parts from a good cylinder, move coil,wire and plug from a cylinder that is working correctly and not the companion if you have waste spark type ignition(your coil probably goes to 2 cylinders that's what is referred to as a companion cylinder). Be careful don't remove spark plugs from a hot aluminum cylinder head or you may pull out the threads.I have trouble codes P0301 and P0351 which is a cylinder 1 misfire and Ignition coil A malfunction... HELP?
    Even though we don't know what vehicle you have....



    With these two codes together... I'd say its time for a tune up. Replace your plugs with an original equipment equivelent platinum plug.... and check for a vacuum leak.I have trouble codes P0301 and P0351 which is a cylinder 1 misfire and Ignition coil A malfunction... HELP?
    pull plug and look at it. if looks white to tan colored it is firing. if you didn't get codes reset after fixing problem start with that first. computer retains code on misfire until reset.I have trouble codes P0301 and P0351 which is a cylinder 1 misfire and Ignition coil A malfunction... HELP?
    switch 1- 2 wiresI have trouble codes P0301 and P0351 which is a cylinder 1 misfire and Ignition coil A malfunction... HELP?
    make year model?
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  • Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?

    I have a 2005 craftsman 18 hp riding mower with a briggs and stratton motor (model 31H777). The mower would start and run great for 20 minutes then start sputtering like it was out of gas but never turn off. I was told the ignition coil was going bad so I changed it and gapped it correctly to manufactures specs. Now it will not even crank. Did I mess up the timing when I turned the flywheel 3 or 4 times when I was trying to set the ignition coil gap? If so, how can this be fixed? Thank youCraftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    I doubt that the timing is off. Check to see that it is firing with the new coil. Its possible you missed something. These engines are switched off by grounding the coil, check that the small wire coming from the coil is not pinched between anything. It could be a problem with a safety switch. If it is firing make sure it is getting fuel, try putting a few drops of gas in the carb or use a starting fluid. If it tries to start then the problem is in the fuel system. Carb could be clogged or if it is a twin cylinder it could be a bad fuel pump.



    There is no adjustment for timing on lawnmower engines. It is possible the gap is too large or the flywheel could have sheared a key which is rare on a riding mower.



    Even if the timing is off (sheared key) you should still have a spark. If you have a spark and it will not try to start and run when you put a few drops of gas in the carb or use starting fluid then you need to pull the flywheel and check key.Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    Thanks to all. Problem was not anything to do with coil. ( I have 2 coils now) Fuel solenoid attached to bottom of carburator bowl going bad. Changed air filter also, something I should have done first. Runs much smoother. I could bypass solenoid but think I should buy new one.

    Report Abuse

    Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    the flywheel should have a key way on the shaft, so you can,t get it out of time, what gap did you set it at ? try 10 - 12 thousands

    points at 15 thousands

    you say it wont crank, is that turning over ? or not starting ?

    set the plug at 35 T use a hot plug , like a B-17 are you getting spark?Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    Not even crank? or not even fire. Timing really shouldn't be an issue. Unless you removed the flywheel, you shouldn't have done anything to compromise the timing. More than likely the air gap is wrong. The way we did it in the field was to tear open the box that the module came in and use that to gap the module. It never failed. Metal feeler gages and magnets don't seem to work well together. Did you gap it on the magnets or off, you need to gap it on the magnets. If you can't get it to run with the new one, put the old one back on and see if it runs again. Then post an update. I check back once a day at least until resolution.Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    The air gap is not a critical measurement so long as there is a gap. With the magnets adjacent to the coil the gap should be set. I don't think that you can install the coil upside down or at least you can't on my Kohler engine. You did not mess up the timing. You would have to remove the flywheel to effect the timing. I would check the spark with the new coil. If you are not getting spark, disconnect the ground wire from the coil and try it again. Most often when a coil is bad they quit completly when they get hot not just make the engine run bad. You could be working on the wrong problem. The first thing to do is determine if you have spark with the new coil.Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    Well for the original problem, I just went through the same thing. It turned out to be a dirty fuel filter and my fuel cap was clogged and not venting the tank. That combination would let my mower run about 30 minutes and then start sputtering and coughing.If I loosened the fuel cap it would run another 30 minutes. If the engine will not even crank , that has nothing to do with the timing. I would start by putting the old coil back on and gaping it with card board and thoroughly check for loose wires especially around the starter solenoid and the starter.

    Make sure the battery is fully charged. Unless you put the new coil on wrong somehow, it will have nothing to do with keeping the engine from at least cranking.Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    william is on the right track,, there probably wasn't anything wrong with the coil!! the key was probab;y sheared but just holding on then it fell apart when you worked on the coil,,, hitting something hard can cause the key to shear,,!! and if you pulled the flywheel when you worked on it the pin may have fallen out and you didn't notice!! so it is way out of time now,,Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    the term cranking is just the mechanical process of connecting the battery to the starter motor and the starter motor engaging the flywheel and spining the cam, thus causing the engine to turn and allowing all components to move in the manner expected at start up.



    To fire means for a charge to reach the spark plug and for it to ignite the compressed air/fuel mixture at the proper time that allows for it to explode and drive the piston down in the cylinder. If everything is set correctly, this will continue after you release the key. It sounds like in your case, the engine used to do this, but now no longer even fires.



    i agree that one possible cause is changing the timing. If you can find the shop manual for your engine or one very similar to it, you can probably get the sequence for adjusting timing. In the old days you needed a timing light for that, but maybe its no longer necessary on a modern B%26amp;S.



    Sorry I can't be more helpful.Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    first replace the sheer pin that aligns the flywheel and to space the coil I always just placed a business card between the coil and the steel part of the flywheel with the screws loose. when the magnet sucks it up tight then tighten the screws and pull out the card. make sure the wire isn't,t grounding out or broken.Craftsman riding lawn mower ignition coil/timing problem?
    Your original problem was fuel related me thinks, probably fuel cap or filter as the other chap mentioned. If the motor spins over and gives you a spark and your plug comes out wet then you have either dislodged the key in the keyway on the flywheel or you have sheared it off somehow, these are very soft and I once had one shear through a backfire.

    Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?

    I am currently driving a 2002 Mazda Protege ES. I love my car but within the past year, I have spent a lot of money to keep it running. More than it's worth. I had the ignition coils changed; tires; battery; brakes and catalytic converter replaced. The repairs exceeded the value of the car. I am now old that my flywheel is damaged and at over 110,000mi I need to keep an eye on the clutch. I should mention that the car has been in two accidents-- rear-ended at 25mph by a teenager on the phone; and then it spun out on the highway-- propped up on the curb and the back end hit the concrete barrier. After both incidents the car was repaired and the frame straightened. I question how well though because the rear-wheels cannot be aligned properly.



    I came across this 2004 Mazda 3s for sale. The car has never been involved in an accident; is a one owner and looks fairly clean-- both mechanically as well as cosmetically. The car as 80,000 mi on it but with a trade, the dealer only wants $4000. out of pocket from me. The car also comes with a warranty. I am currently having it checked out by a mechanic.



    Question is...



    Would you keep the Protege or get the Mazda 3? I honestly would feel safer in the Mazda 3 but after dumping all that money in the Protege I would hate to get rid of it. But like I said the flywheel is damaged and I don't know what else might be going wrong with it...Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?
    I would move on from the Protege, it sounds like it has protected the occupants through the years and has made it through many %26quot;battles%26quot;. I would not ask more from the car at this point. The 3 is a better car and has an engineered service life of 10 years or 275,000 miles before the owner has to dump money into the car to keep it running. I would buy it.



    Best.Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?
    If it's comes with warranty and you like it. Go for it! I have 123k miles on my and the engine is so smooth. :). I love that car. What color? Check site for more info.

    Www.mazda3forums.com



    how much is you car worth? What's the retail price on the Mazda 3 without a trade? You might be better of selling the protege. Might get a bit more money.

    Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?

    I am currently driving a 2002 Mazda Protege ES. I love my car but within the past year, I have spent a lot of money to keep it running. More than it's worth. I had the ignition coils changed; tires; battery; brakes and catalytic converter replaced. The repairs exceeded the value of the car. I am now old that my flywheel is damaged and at over 110,000mi I need to keep an eye on the clutch. I should mention that the car has been in two accidents-- rear-ended at 25mph by a teenager on the phone; and then it spun out on the highway-- propped up on the curb and the back end hit the concrete barrier. After both incidents the car was repaired and the frame straightened. I question how well though because the rear-wheels cannot be aligned properly.



    I came across this 2004 Mazda 3s for sale. The car has never been involved in an accident; is a one owner and looks fairly clean-- both mechanically as well as cosmetically. The car as 80,000 mi on it but with a trade, the dealer only wants $4000. out of pocket from me. The car also comes with a warranty. I am currently having it checked out by a mechanic.



    Question is...



    Would you keep the Protege or get the Mazda 3? I honestly would feel safer in the Mazda 3 but after dumping all that money in the Protege I would hate to get rid of it. But like I said the flywheel is damaged and I don't know what else might be going wrong with it...Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?
    Buy the 3. They are great cars. Sounds like you are doing everything right to make sure the car is worth purchasing.



    If it wasn't for the two wrecks and the frame issues with the alignment I'd tell you to keep the Protege. None of the repairs are unusual for a car with that many miles and that age. You'll be buying tires and a battery and brakes for the 3 soon enough. All cars require maintenance it's part of owning a car.Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?
    I say find an after hours mechanic you can trust and keep the protege.



    I made a living for more than a dozen years off cars like yours where people fixed nearly everything and then traded it in because they irrationally feared more repairs.



    No matter what happens from here on out, its going to be cheaper to keep what you have.

    Bad car smell eeewwww ;_;?

    hi, I just purchased a car for 700, they thought it had a gasket, and i only needed to change the ignition coil, lol its a 3000 dollar car.

    anyways. the people who owned it are naaaastyyy =(

    the car smells so bad D:

    its inside was so dirty its disgusting, so i took all the seats out and scrubed them, and scrubed all the floors

    but its still dirty and smells so baaaaad ;_;

    can someone please help me, how the hell can i get the bad smell out of the seats and floors and make them as clean and nice looking as possible????

    thanks a lot!!Bad car smell eeewwww ;_;?
    try to remove the seat cover and vacuum the inside of the car put lysol on it coz it can kills bacteria. check also the compartment and clean it. buy a new seat cover.Bad car smell eeewwww ;_;?
    seem like that would have been second thing you notice how to clean it out remove everything in side car wash with soap an dspray with hose let dry put some sort of air freshinger in cat shut doors come back in a weekBad car smell eeewwww ;_;?
    haha,

    try opening the doors and windows and leave them like that for a while.,

    um use those air fresheners for cars.,and maybe even two?

    maybe re-paint it and try to fix it up.Car seat covers,and lysol or febreeze work amazing too!



    --good luck!Bad car smell eeewwww ;_;?
    1.Spray the car with lysol

    2.You should eat lots of pizza or chocolate in the car

    3. If this doesn't work tell the people that sold you the car if it has a garunteeBad car smell eeewwww ;_;?
    Lots of fresh air and time will cure it eventually.I wouldn't use chemicals to mask the odors myself,it only makes it worse.It helps to leave the windows and possibly doors and trunk open to air out for long periods.Also activated charcoal will absorb odors.It can be made by crushing charcoal then placing it in an open container in the trunk and under the seats.Bad car smell eeewwww ;_;?
    tonight before you go to bed spray the inside down with fabreze.

    How do i adjust the fuel mixture on a mazda mx5 1990 as it is burning too rich?

    i have a 1990 mazda mx5 1.6i and it appears to be running rich as i am getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust when i accelerate, the power is also down slightly, i did feel it may be the head gasket gone however i am not using water or oil and they are not congeling together so this makes me think it may be fuel, also the smoke does not smell like burnt oil it smells like unburnt fuel mixture? i have change the ignition coil regulator and the spark plugs so i know all four pots are fireing, any suggestions?



    Mark.How do i adjust the fuel mixture on a mazda mx5 1990 as it is burning too rich?
    There is not much to adjust, the ecm is getting false information.

    This can be because the exhaust manifold is cracked, and letting air in. This makes the ECM dump more fuel into the engine.

    So look for exhaust leaks, I mention the crack in the exhaust headers because both of my Miata's (90 models) developed cracks at the collector. I replaced them both with OBX headers from e-bay. There was a fitment issue, but they fixed the problem.

    But this is not the only place an exhaust leak can develop and such a leak not only lets gas out, but air in.

    The other thing to think about is a fuel injector that is not seating and/or a fuel regulator that is not functioning. So check the vacuum hose to the fuel regulator and run some injector cleaner through the fuel system.

    The last item (the first to many) is that the O2 sensor is bad. However, I have not had a O2 sensor failure yet. But the items I mentions, I have seen.
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